Avg: 2.7 from 50 votes
|Type:||Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ryan Lawson, 99|
|Page Views:||5,143 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||ferrells on May 25, 2010|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
As long as you're up there, I would highly recommend summiting both the Tail and the Opossum.
The best moment on the route is the crux: 5.7 or 7+ balance moves on good feet with not good handholds. The crux looks harder than it is, and has exciting exposure. I might even hazard to liken it to the Panic Point on the Pioneer Route of Monkey Face.
Pitch 1 (5.7): Start as per Cave Route (2-3 bolts).
Pitch 2 (5.7+): Meander across heavily featured terrain to climber's right of the top of the Cave Route. The pitch cruxes at an awesome exposed corner with bolts everywhere. Once past these moves, the anchor appears quickly. Easily combined with Pitch 1, but use long runners to prevent drag (and you probably don't want to clip the anchor atop the first pitch if you're going to link them).
Pitch 3 (5.5): A fun, long, heavily featured pitch with good rock that gains the summit of the Tail, or the Opossum, depending on where you want to go. See below for a descent option that offers more climbing.
Descent: A couple of good options exist:
1) A 60 meter rope will reach the ground if you do two single rope rappels. First, rappel from the ridge to the anchors of the 2nd pitch. From here, a 60 will get you to the ground.
2) This one is more fun, and it offers more climbing. After summiting the Opossum, traverse the sharp ridge (5.2). There's no protection here, and it's fantastically exposed, so be careful. At the end of the traverse, there is a new anchor with rap rings. One 50m rope will get you to the ground (not that anyone has 50m ropes anymore).