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Crimson King

5.11c, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 64 votes
FA: John Varco
Utah > Zion NP > Confluence
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


A nice route up some beautiful rock. Thin moves & gear lead up a nice crack. Up high some thin moves remain in lighter colored rock. Good fun.


Located just as you come around the corner from Kung Fu Theater into the Confluence area. An obvious splitter on a red face next to a tree.


Lots of cams from tiny up thru maybe .5 or .75 camalot, nuts, & some runners. Rappel off bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

David Bloom on Crimson King.
[Hide Photo] David Bloom on Crimson King.
upper chrimson
[Hide Photo] upper chrimson
Hard climbing with amazing fingers!
[Hide Photo] Hard climbing with amazing fingers!
Nice picture of this B-E-A-utiful line
[Hide Photo] Nice picture of this B-E-A-utiful line
this climb is a real beauty!
[Hide Photo] this climb is a real beauty!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
[Hide Comment] No offense to the poster, but I hate it when people say "lots of cams". What does that mean? 4 of each size? 10? This is the desert. Quantity matters. Here is my suggestion for this one:
1 green c3
2 red c3
4-5 .3 camalot
3-4 .4 camalot
3-4 .5 camalot

This thing is thin the whole way, so make sure you have at least one .3, one red c3, and one .5 for the top section where it angles right after the good rest. Nov 25, 2012
Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO
[Hide Comment] I loved this climb. Reminds me of Indian Creek. The upper section is deceptively hard. Mar 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the gear list. It may not be what everyone wants but it gives one a place to start. Apr 23, 2016
two chains
Fucken Zion
[Hide Comment] This aint no Zion 11c!! Book gives it 11- sure felt like 11-! Apr 27, 2018
[Hide Comment] This was my rack but I had sussed the gear out prior. If I was going for an onsight attempt I would want Spencer W's rack
Single: .1, .2, .75, 3
Double: .3
Triple: .4 and .5 Apr 29, 2019