PRINT: Rock Climb Crimson King, Zion National Park

Crimson King

5.11c, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 129 votes
FA: John Varco
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Confluence

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

A nice route up some beautiful rock. Thin moves & gear lead up a nice crack. Up high some thin moves remain in lighter colored rock. Good fun.

Location

Located just as you come around the corner from Kung Fu Theater into the Confluence area. An obvious splitter on a red face next to a tree.

Protection

Lots of cams from tiny up thru maybe .5 or .75 camalot, nuts, & some runners. Rappel off bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crimson king, think indian creek with face holds!

Nice picture of this B-E-A-utiful line

David Bloom on Crimson King.

upper crimson

Hard climbing with amazing fingers!

this climb is a real beauty!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction

No offense to the poster, but I hate it when people say "lots of cams". What does that mean? 4 of each size? 10? This is the desert. Quantity matters. Here is my suggestion for this one:
1 green c3
2 red c3
4-5 .3 camalot
3-4 .4 camalot
3-4 .5 camalot

This thing is thin the whole way, so make sure you have at least one .3, one red c3, and one .5 for the top section where it angles right after the good rest. Nov 25, 2012

Ray Hellinger
Gunnison, CO

I loved this climb. Reminds me of Indian Creek. The upper section is deceptively hard. Mar 9, 2015

Jeff Scheuerell

Thanks for the gear list. It may not be what everyone wants but it gives one a place to start. Apr 23, 2016

two chains
Fucken Zion

5.11-

This aint no Zion 11c!! Book gives it 11- sure felt like 11-! Apr 27, 2018

Kyle Goupil
Salt Lake City

5.11c

This was my rack but I had sussed the gear out prior. If I was going for an onsight attempt I would want Spencer W's rack
Single: .1, .2, .75, 3
Double: .3
Triple: .4 and .5 Apr 29, 2019

Usux Atclimbing

5.11-

Possibly the easiest .11- in Zion Dec 20, 2020

Landon McDowell
Saint George UT

5.11a

It would be a stretch to call this 11c I think it’s a solid 11a. This crack is much easier then Inner Chi, Fails of Power and any other 11c in Zion. Also 1 .4 is plenty. This might be the best single pitch route I’ve ever climbed in Zion. It protects great. Get on it! Sep 9, 2021

Coyote Am

5.11c

this route is not soft. It’s 11c if it were in the creek it would be a 12- and everyone would say it was soft. Lol
be proud if you can send this one! Apr 24, 2023

Ross Exler
Denver, CO

5.11c

Really outstanding route. Maybe more technical than powerful, but I think 11c is fair. Seemed pretty comparable in difficulty to Pony Express in Eldo to me. If this thing is 11a, then Larson-Farr is mid 10. I agree that Inner Chi is harder. Jul 16, 2023

the gimp
dungeon

harder than reggaetone... May 16, 2024