Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Clay Watson
Page Views: 483 total · 4/month
Shared By: bsmoot on May 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Pitch 1: Climb past a triangle shaped flake to a fist crack. Ascend this to one of 2 choices. You can move left to an undercling. Above this, difficult sporty face move leads to easier climbing. The second option is to continue up the crack 8' to a flake. Move up to a hand crack. Both options are about 5.9. It's also possible to skip this pitch by scrambling further up the gully and then traversing back left.

Pitch 2: Ascend the bolt protected arete above to a slab. Move right past 2 bolts. Make a long reach past a steep bulge to good holds. Excellent slab climbing leads to Fudd Ledge (5.9+). If you're short, the steep bulge may not be possible. If you're tall, like Mr. Watson, then it's...elementary.

Pitch 3: Ascend the short, beautiful face right of the regular route (5.7). You can belay at the ledge at the top of the face (small & medium cams) or continue up Tingey's.

Location

Begin in the gully, near the start of Tingey's Terror. This climb ascends the right facing corner just before the approach makes the exposed traverse out to the left.

Protection

1 set of Cams up to 3". A few wired stoppers

Photos