Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Clay Watson
Page Views: 251 total · 2/month
Shared By: bsmoot on May 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Pitch 1: Climb past a triangle shaped flake to a fist crack. Ascend this to one of 2 choices. You can move left to an undercling. Above this, difficult sporty face move leads to easier climbing. The second option is to continue up the crack 8' to a flake. Move up to a hand crack. Both options are about 5.9. It's also possible to skip this pitch by scrambling further up the gully and then traversing back left.

Pitch 2: Ascend the bolt protected arete above to a slab. Move right past 2 bolts. Make a long reach past a steep bulge to good holds. Excellent slab climbing leads to Fudd Ledge (5.9+). If you're short, the steep bulge may not be possible. If you're tall, like Mr. Watson, then it's...elementary.

Pitch 3: Ascend the short, beautiful face right of the regular route (5.7). You can belay at the ledge at the top of the face (small & medium cams) or continue up Tingey's.


Begin in the gully, near the start of Tingey's Terror. This climb ascends the right facing corner just before the approach makes the exposed traverse out to the left.


1 set of Cams up to 3". A few wired stoppers


I liked this a lot. The first pitch has a fun leftward rockover move that is a lot easier than it looks.
But the second and third pitches are the best. The Smoot's found a great arete and slab climb on the second. The third is a really fun (although short) featured slab that links chicken heads really well.

Like Brian says, a fun variation. Jun 9, 2010

I don't know of any protection bolts above the end of this route. Were you thinking of the 3 bolts just off of Fudd ledge? If so, then you were on the last pitch of Elementary. Oct 17, 2010
Jim D  
And I thought all the nice lines on the Gate had already been climbed a decade ago...The first and third pitch are a little contrived, but the second is great and they're all fun. It appears the route was bolted on lead, as all the bolts are clipped from really good stances. The second pitch is cruxy-you do a quick crux, then clip a bolt, then do another little crux. And it does help to be tall for the hardest one. You do all the hard moves on the route with a bolt or a solid cam at your belly button-it is one of the best protected routes on the Gate. You'd really have to work hard to get hurt on this route.

The third pitch would be a dud, but if you combine it with the arete between the main route of Tingey's Terror and the variation to the right, you get another great 5.9+ slab pitch.

The route is a great slab climbing outing when combined with Tingey's Torture.

At the top of the first pitch, be sure to continue up the arete on the right. There is another arete on the left with a bolted anchor at the bottom of it. I'm not sure what route that is, but it isn't Elementary My Dear Watson.

Nice work to the first ascensionists. People will be climbing this one for years to come. Which is good, because it's still kind of gritty. Oct 19, 2010
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
No way... Can you say squeeze? Oct 22, 2010
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
biossal. that topo john includes has 3 bolts marked that are already there, and i believe added by James Garret. With more and more bolts popping up off extensions of tingeys one could climb all of the buttress (torture that is) with hardly a rack at all! Nov 2, 2010
Fun climbing as I have enjoyed the TTorture area for years. But reading the description for this route and having climbed here recently twice now, I am more confused than ever. Bolted lines on the right and left of Tingeys. Not exactly sure what I climbed and not much accurate documentation here? What is the name of the route that starts below and right of Sweet jane variation, for example? How about a word from the area developers? Jul 7, 2011
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Someone should come up with a nice photo topo including all the bolts and lines with FA information. It would probably look like something a meth-addicted monkey experiencing withdrawal would draw using only his own poop.
What's the name of that bonier-bolted line above and to the R of that 3-bolt line on the topo? Jul 7, 2011
Hi James,

An additional route or two were added after we did "Elementary" This may add to the confusion. Looks like they were done by the same guy who puts his names on some of his hangers. Jul 10, 2011
Fun climb! We approached up the gulley, but if we had more time (this was an after work adventure) it'd be great to link up from below.

First two pitches were great. We skipped the last and ran two more pitches up (not sure what we were on). There were plenty of bolts on pitch 2! Nice arete climbing. The crux is fun - definietly height dependant, but a 5'5"er was abe to get it done on TR without much humph.

I'm not sure if the standard decent over there is still to hike to schoolroom, but that's what we did. We had 1 70m, it was dark, and I'm not too familiar with the area. May 11, 2012
Sweet route!

We went up the troll gully to the start which was awesome when we saw parties on sweet jane.
Elementary Dear Watson
Blue Hanger delight
Tingeys torture 5.10 variant
The flakes
Tingeys Torture final pitch
Axis of Evil Arete

Great day of climbing new pitches. We went bottom to top with a majority of pitches I'd never climbed before. I love that.

If you are rapping the basic line of ascent, make sure you have at least two FULL 60meter ropes. Expect to be stretching it in a few places and doing some traverse rappelling. Just another example of why 70meter ropes rule. It was nice to rap right to the packs.

enjoy! Jun 27, 2012
Very sad to see all those bolts up there....glad I've climbed Tingeys many times with out all the visual pollution. :-( Oct 17, 2013
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
This climb was really gritty and it was a lot harder than 9+. A good example is the start of tarzan is 10a and I cand do tarzan no problem but every time I tried the crux my feet would grit off and the fall is onto a ledge (the climb was not worth the risk of injury to me). I am not sure why the bolt line did not contunue up the nice slab. Dec 2, 2013