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General Mayhem

5.11a, Sport, 30 ft,  Avg: 2.3 from 49 votes
FA: Vaino Kodas, doni, Michelle Montgomery
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > Gateway Rock
Access Issue: 2019 Santa Fe National Forest Temporary Closure Order Details

Description

A stout V3ish boulder problem through the first couple bolts gives way to slightly easier but sustained climbing.

Location

On the arete between Flake Out and Green Thumb.

Protection

Well bolted at the bottom where the route is hard, with the bolts spacing out as you go.

Fixed chains for anchors.

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General Mayhem
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Lisa Cecchini
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Great climb, its short but I liked it alot. May 24, 2010
doni
NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] FA was Vaino Kodas, doni, Michelle Montgomery. The name of the climb is General Mayhem. Glad you liked it! May 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] Fun short route no harder than 5.9+ all the holds are positve and big. Might seem a little harder for shorter people making the big left move. Jun 8, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I added some leaver 'biners to the chains on this route last Friday. It would be sweet if they didn't get ripped off. Jun 9, 2010
Devin C.
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Nice addition to the area! Agree with the v3-ish maybe v2+ boulder problem at the start! For me v2-v3 does not translate into 5.10 in very many ways, I give this a solid .11a and I'm 6'2". Great climb and well protected, props to those who set it up!! Jun 9, 2010
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
 
[Hide Comment] This thing shut me down. I feel it is harder than .11a. Isn't v3 equivalent to 5.12? Maybe I was missing something. Apr 26, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.11
[Hide Comment] V2 would be 5.11 and V3, 5.11+. However since most people boulder harder than the climb on a rope and it is only hard at the start it might be easier for them than say 50 feet of 5.10- climbing to a V2 which would likely be 5.11/5.11+ as well. Apr 26, 2012
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] All in all this is a really fun V1 followed by 5.9+ climbing to the anchors. A tough 5.11a at the hardest. some tricky feet keep it in grade. (I certainly missed them on my first try)

Cool little route! would be a great first 5.11 lead.

I think the guy claiming it was 5.9+ was talking about the route to the right? (just around the arete, "green thumb") Sep 4, 2017
Thomas Barton
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I left some new 'biners on the chains today. The old ones were about half worn through; probably still fine, but they didn't inspire much confidence. Haha

Great route! Tough start! (for me) Nov 4, 2017