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Routes in Farmington Crag

137 lbs of Fury T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Basket Case TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batman Surprise TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Butt Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cool Air T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Era of Tara, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Every woman has her charm. TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Humble Beginnings T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Klingon Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nano Pitch TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Repent Now or Die TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Suck it Up Princess S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 188 total, 2/month
Shared By: Orphaned on May 22, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

I gave this 3 stars, because you get a great sense of exposure on this climb as it angles out over an over-hanging arete. It's a mixed route. You need trad-gear and there are two bolts to clip on the way up. I belayed Ryan Lauck as he on-sighted the climb as a trad-lead. I've only top-roped it. The top anchors are easily accessible by hiking to the top of the crag, though I recommend putting yourself on belay before approaching the top-anchors. Do not mistaken the top-anchors for Batman Surprise with the top-anchors for this climb! There is a nasty sharp edge above the top-anchors for this climb, so if you're using the right anchors, the edge doesn't affect anything.

A variation of this climb is about 5.10 that just goes straight up the fall-line. Ryan Lauck climbed this too.

Location

This climb is on the South facing wall of the crag.

Protection

Standard rack, I guess. Two bolts to clip before a two-bolt anchor. Ryan slung a horn on the way up.

Photos

The straight up line is called, "Grandma's House" and was FA'd by Matt Nielson and Dave Nielsen. They rated it 5.10 and would have put in more bolts, but the drill ran out of power. May 24, 2010
Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
i think its fair, ive always interpreted the star system to mean: If you are planning on visiting this crag, these are the climbs most worthy of your attention. I dont think you can rely on the star system beyond the scope of the grade range and crag its in. id rather climb on big cottonwood quartzite any day but for us farmington folk this crag is a nice after work diversion.

to change the subject- do you have any clue who developed this stuff clay? May 24, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Who says 4 stars has to be a mountain range classic? Why can't it just be a crag or wall classic? Ah... semantics... Not saying that I agree or disagree with it, just saying that "classic" and "great" are subjective and obviously mean different things to different people. One man's trash is, well, you know the rest... May 23, 2010
3 stars?? Seriously?? There are 4 available. Think of the best climbs in the whole Wasatch as having 4 stars. You gave this little pile 3 stars. wow. May 23, 2010
Ryan Lauck
Farmington, UT
Ryan Lauck   Farmington, UT
if you stick clipped the first bolt, you could treat this line as a sport climb. The bolts are not in logical stances however and you face some cruxy (5.7) moves getting to the first bolt about 25 feet up so I would not recommend leading this without gear.

on the plus side, the rock is great and seems to be the same type of quartzite found in the ogden area with plenty of cool geometric shapes, fractures and incut edges with the occasional polished sloper. May 23, 2010