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Unlucky in Love

5.11b, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 1.6 from 16 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Lyme Disease Rock
Warning Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. DetailsDrop down

Description

Fun route with unique, dynamic movement. It's a bit contrived in the sense that if you decide to mantle onto the mossy ramp by bolt two instead of staying on the arete, you can avoid the crux. However, this really isn't too tempting because all the holds that are "off" are covered in moss.

The route starts with some balancy slab moves to get established under the second bolt. From here, power up and right through an intricate and gymnastic ascending traverse that requires big moves between large sloping holds. The difficulty backs off after a good rest at the fourth bolt.

Location

On the right side of Lyme Disease Rock, the first bolted route uphill of the classic "Ticks Ripped My Flesh", 5.10b. Not as far uphill as "Lucky in Love". Look for bolts that go up and noticeably right on a bulbous arete-like feature.

Protection

4 bolt to a two-bolt anchor
-- the first bolt is kind of sketchy and could use replacement
-- it would be difficult to TR (without directionals) because of the traversing nature of this route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Took a leader fall on the first bolt 6/15/16, and it held. Didn't read that this bolt needs replacement until after. Jun 16, 2016
Mike Ferrell
Boston, MA
 
[Hide Comment] The amount of moss and debris on the holds here is irritating. The first bolt is downright dangerous. Glad you survived the fall Bobby^ Jul 25, 2016
John E.
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] First bolt is definitely sketchy. The hanger is spinning at this point and I wouldn't trust a fall on it. Mar 19, 2017
Adam Merry
Monterey
[Hide Comment] Onsighted this on lead this weekend and the was happy to not have fallen at the first bolt. It is still spinning and I also would not trust a fall on it. Definitely be confident at the grade and clip that second bolt if you're going to get on this one. Feb 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] Echoing the comments on the bad first bolt. I'd don't think the route gets much action -- it was really dirty, but the movement was actually really fun.

Shares an anchor with Lucky In Love, which can be accessed from the top. A little tricky to clean because of where the anchors are. May 4, 2019