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Routes in Lyme Disease Rock

Bitch Goddess Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitch Goddess Right TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cosgrove Face S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky in Love S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pigs' Feat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ticks on my tree stem S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks ripped my flesh S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unlucky in Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vixen S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 235 total · 2/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 22, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Fun route with unique, dynamic movement. It's a bit contrived in the sense that if you decide to mantle onto the mossy ramp by bolt two instead of staying on the arete, you can avoid the crux. However, this really isn't too tempting because all the holds that are "off" are covered in moss.

The route starts with some balancy slab moves to get established under the second bolt. From here, power up and right through an intricate and gymnastic ascending traverse that requires big moves between large sloping holds. The difficulty backs off after a good rest at the fourth bolt.

Location

On the right side of Lyme Disease Rock, the first bolted route uphill of the classic "Ticks Ripped My Flesh", 5.10b. Not as far uphill as "Lucky in Love". Look for bolts that go up and noticeably right on a bulbous arete-like feature.

Protection

4 bolt to a two-bolt anchor
-- the first bolt is kind of sketchy and could use replacement
-- it would be difficult to TR (without directionals) because of the traversing nature of this route

Photos

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Bobby F  
Took a leader fall on the first bolt 6/15/16, and it held. Didn't read that this bolt needs replacement until after. Jun 16, 2016
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
 
The amount of moss and debris on the holds here is irritating. The first bolt is downright dangerous. Glad you survived the fall Bobby^ Jul 25, 2016
John E.
  5.11b
John E.  
  5.11b
First bolt is definitely sketchy. The hanger is spinning at this point and I wouldn't trust a fall on it. Mar 19, 2017
Adam Merry
Monterey
Adam Merry   Monterey
Onsighted this on lead this weekend and the was happy to not have fallen at the first bolt. It is still spinning and I also would not trust a fall on it. Definitely be confident at the grade and clip that second bolt if you're going to get on this one. Feb 19, 2018

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