Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 417 total · 4/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 22, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Fun route with unique, dynamic movement. It's a bit contrived in the sense that if you decide to mantle onto the mossy ramp by bolt two instead of staying on the arete, you can avoid the crux. However, this really isn't too tempting because all the holds that are "off" are covered in moss.

The route starts with some balancy slab moves to get established under the second bolt. From here, power up and right through an intricate and gymnastic ascending traverse that requires big moves between large sloping holds. The difficulty backs off after a good rest at the fourth bolt.

Location

On the right side of Lyme Disease Rock, the first bolted route uphill of the classic "Ticks Ripped My Flesh", 5.10b. Not as far uphill as "Lucky in Love". Look for bolts that go up and noticeably right on a bulbous arete-like feature.

Protection

4 bolt to a two-bolt anchor
-- the first bolt is kind of sketchy and could use replacement
-- it would be difficult to TR (without directionals) because of the traversing nature of this route

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