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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Cantle

Crystal Calisthenics T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Darva T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Book, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hey McLeod, Get Off of My Ewe T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3-
Riding the Cotton Pony T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Aid, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, George Armstrong
Page Views: 411 total, 4/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on May 19, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is located on the right side of the highest part of Saddle Rocks, just right of the start to The Good Book. This is an excellent and beautiful aid route and is great practice with RURPs/copperheads without seriously risking one's neck, because there are a few "chicken" bolts along the thin crack to safeguard against any super long falls. The route starts as an easy slab/apron (5.5, 1 bolt), then hits a head wall. A thin seam/crack runs the length of the head wall, but doesn't quite reach the slab. Aid off a second bolt, and ascend the thin crack on RURPs, beaks, and/or copperheads. This crack is supplemented with 3 "chicken" bolts, so you probably won't wet your pants on this section. Please leave the chicken bolts in place.
After awhile, the crack opens up to take RPs, TCUs, and stoppers. Rappel off one bolt and a runner around a horn (single 60 mm. rope, 100').

Location

Just right of The Good Book.

Protection

Quick Draws, RURPS and/or copperheads, beaks, RPs, and small cams, a few stoppers, maybe a KB or so.

Photos

Love the name! Great joke.

What's the difference between the Rolling Stones and a Scotsman?

Rolling Stones sing "Hey, you, get off of my cloud!"

The Scotsman says... (see route name) Nov 7, 2011