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Wench
5.11+ V4- X,
Boulder, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Bjorn (5/16/10)
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Postcolonial Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Wench begins on crimps on the R side of the arete L of
Hagseed. Get a good slopey rail on the L side, get good feet and lunge for the good crimp that marks the start of the crack traverse. Make do with smearing, sometimes crumbly/licheny feet low, using a high right good on previous crack handholds as you go. The moves are actually reasonably solid, but by this point your head is bound to be talking to you. Though this feature is a crack, it is offset at many spots, so most movement is on crimps on the downward side of the crack. As the crack reaches the lip, it demands a few harder moves before rounding the lip with a few deep but slopey dishes for holds from which a final rock up gains a solution jug on a big boulder perched up there.
Location
Wench begins at the base of the arete left of the
Hagseed fissure. Begin on crimps with ledgy feet, pull gingerly on the wide open, two sided flake, then traverse the left-diagonalling crack to a topout of considerable difficulty. This route has hard moves well into the no-fall zone.
Protection
Pad it all you want. No falling allowed.
This route could conceivably be climbed as a gear-protected route. Just know there will be no gear till you're well off the ground, and you likely won't pause for gear toward the top of the traverse, so a falling climber would likely swing into the slab. Could be top roped, but most gear atop is a bit grimy. Still, top rope is the only way to make this not a death route.