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Routes in Practice Wall

A Happy Ending S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Acrophobiacs Anonymous S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Another One Fights the Rust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
BDSM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beta Spewer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creeping Elegance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crescendo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dragon's Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dragon's Tail T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Handout, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kate's 1st Trad Lead T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Low Exposure S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Night Foxx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Shawty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheet Rock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Short and Sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabalito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slither and Squeeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Smear Tactics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet and Sour T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Yu Stin Ki Pu S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Mark and Kate Calder - 2004
Page Views: 1,082 total, 12/month
Shared By: saxfiend on May 17, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

This dinky dihedral is harder than it looks. The corner crack starts off fingertips-thin, and there's not much in the way of feet on the faces. In spite of its short length, not a good choice for neophyte trad leaders.

Location

Starts in an obvious dihedral at the top of the approach trail, just right of three short sport lines. Shares bolted anchors with Low Exposure (use a directional).

Protection

Light rack. Small cams and nuts, then a #3 Camalot or equivalent to protect the topout moves.

Photos

Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8-
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8-
New Muir valley pocket guidebook says 5.8 Mar 20, 2015
Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
Mid size stoppers fit low (I think my first piece was BD #8) A #5 camalot will fit well where the crack widens up top (i was forced to use a slightly tipped out #4) and if you want to sew it up bring a .4 camalot and a pink tricam in addition to your stoppers and one #5.


The pro was solid but man did this route kick my ass. I had in my head some good finger locks on solid dihedral stemming for feet and was disappointed to find that at most points the crack was too shallow for me to get fingers in. Ended up having to try to lie back most of the way just on fingertips. Jun 2, 2014