Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Mark and Kate Calder - 2004
Page Views: 1,267 total · 12/month
Shared By: saxfiend on May 17, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

This dinky dihedral is harder than it looks. The corner crack starts off fingertips-thin, and there's not much in the way of feet on the faces. In spite of its short length, not a good choice for neophyte trad leaders.

Location

Starts in an obvious dihedral at the top of the approach trail, just right of three short sport lines. Shares bolted anchors with Low Exposure (use a directional).

Protection

Light rack. Small cams and nuts, then a #3 Camalot or equivalent to protect the topout moves.

Photos

Donovan Corcoran
Oxford, OH
Donovan Corcoran   Oxford, OH
Mid size stoppers fit low (I think my first piece was BD #8) A #5 camalot will fit well where the crack widens up top (i was forced to use a slightly tipped out #4) and if you want to sew it up bring a .4 camalot and a pink tricam in addition to your stoppers and one #5.


The pro was solid but man did this route kick my ass. I had in my head some good finger locks on solid dihedral stemming for feet and was disappointed to find that at most points the crack was too shallow for me to get fingers in. Ended up having to try to lie back most of the way just on fingertips. Jun 2, 2014
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.8-
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.8-
New Muir valley pocket guidebook says 5.8 Mar 20, 2015