Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Postcolonial Crag

Hagseed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1+ 5 R
Marble Man, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stonewall S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wench 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V4- 6B X
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Bjorn (Spring '09)
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bjorn on May 17, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Towards the climber's-right of the crag is the prominent hand to fist crack that first caught my eye on this crag. The crux on this route is mainly a mental one. Consequences of a fall are potentially severe, and the interior of the crack, while very solid, is very slick and water-polished. Begin on slammer, often obligingly tapered hand jams, turn the lip on wider hands and take time to find the good fists to seal the top out. Keep a cool head, and you can really enjoy this climb.

My first impression of this crack, then in it's unclean, myriad chockstones-embedded original state, was how nasty it was. It reeked of bat or bird guano till I cleaned it hanging from a rope. It just struck me that this crack had both offensive and alluring qualities to it. But especially after cleaning, Hagseed revealed itself to be a short sample of the perfect splitter potential that is so rare in Clear Creek. I don't know whether to proclaim this crack a destination unless you're the sort who doesn't give a damn about a long approach for a short sample of top quality crack climbing.

It's worth noting that there is a bomber clean gear anchor to be had up top. So one could mitigate the riskiness by climbing this one as a roped route.

Location

Scramble up or across the low 5th class slab at the crag's right side. Beneath the obvious, often odiferous, crack begin on a flake jug, find the least crumbly looking feet and move immediately into hand jams. The opening moves overhang a bit on good hands, then turn the bulge on wider hands to fists.

Protection

R rating is warranted despite the seemingly harmless 15' height. The landing here is directly onto that 5.2 slab. So any pads placed will be on an angle where a falling climber will hit pads then roll/fall down onto the ground below. Not high as number-of-feet-climbed goes, but falling would likely result in at least some injury. And spotters might actually make matters worse.

Photos

0 Comments