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Leverage

5.10c, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 39 votes
FA: Dan and Tina Godshall
Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd > Bank

Description

Start on orange-hued rock behind a large flake, that leans away from the wall. A few hard moves past the first 3 bolts get you to a nice ledge with the best moves to come. Lieback the flake above while saving a little bit of juice for the steep and juggy climax.

Location

Take the Surreal Estate approach trail to the Bank which deposits you underneath Staying Power.

Just left of Courage and Enlightenment, find a large black flake that leans away from the wall. The flake provides a great back rest for your belayer and a convenient stance to clip the first bolt on Leverage.

Protection

9 bolts to two bolt anchor with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Launching off.
[Hide Photo] Launching off.
Clipping the first bolt from the black flake.
[Hide Photo] Clipping the first bolt from the black flake.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

slim

  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a really good addition for the area. It is fairly long, the climbing is really fun, and it is well-protected. Dec 2, 2013
Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] New guide lists this as Sicilian Style, 11a/b. Apr 10, 2014
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Hi Chris, I'm not sure which route you climbed, but Sicilian Style and Leverage are two different routes. Sicilian Style starts about 10 feet to the left in a series of dihedrals before tackling a crack and rounded black face just before the anchors. Leverage is a new route, not in the latest D'Antonio guide, and starts immediately behind a large black flake. Hope that clears things up. Apr 10, 2014
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Great route! Seems like there are a few ways to start it. Mar 17, 2019