PRINT: Rock Climb Sugar Bubbas, The New River Gorge Region

Sugar Bubbas

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.9 from 15 votes
FA: Mike Artz, Eddie Begoon 1988
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Climb the slabby blunt arête through some technical moves then out to the left face. Continue over a small bulge then step back right around the arête up to a spectacular, exciting finish. Devious moves, old bolts, lichened rock, and probably no chalk on the holds, this is what NRG adventure sport climbing is all about!

Location

Left of the arete Mississippi Burning and Dial 911, just past a rocky chimney.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 pin to anchors.