Pretty Piece of Flesh
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
Routes in Above Anthrax
|Climb with a View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Late Night Chalk Show S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Ponyboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Pretty Piece of Flesh S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Riverboat Gambler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Solo Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Who is Bernd Arnold? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||238 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||computerskillclimbing. on May 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionScramble up some ledges and pull onto the slab. The rock quality is impressive for the slab, and the moves are fun. Move up the increasingly steep rock to the joint of the overhanging arrette/fin. Clip the last two bolts in the overhang, and bust through a burly boulder problem, following the line straight up from the last bolt. Safest to stay off of the fin 6 feet to your left - the rock seems a little more rotten there (although it would probably make for easier climbing, but the obvious line is harder, more fun, and on good rock).
Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.
If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.