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Routes in Above Anthrax

Climb with a View T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Late Night Chalk Show S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Ponyboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Riverboat Gambler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solo Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Keith Hengen
Page Views: 238 total, 3/month
Shared By: computerskillclimbing. on May 16, 2010
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up some ledges and pull onto the slab. The rock quality is impressive for the slab, and the moves are fun. Move up the increasingly steep rock to the joint of the overhanging arrette/fin. Clip the last two bolts in the overhang, and bust through a burly boulder problem, following the line straight up from the last bolt. Safest to stay off of the fin 6 feet to your left - the rock seems a little more rotten there (although it would probably make for easier climbing, but the obvious line is harder, more fun, and on good rock).

Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.

If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.

Location

The top cliff band that houses the rest of Above Anthrax has an obvious break about 100' to the South of "Who is Bernd Arnold? (5.8)". This is just left (South) of the impressive roof. The break in the cliff is punctuated by a huge fin sticking out of a green dihedral on the top right wall - that's your climb! Scramble through slippery pine needles to the bottom of the slab. It's easiest to belay from the trail, not the ledges.

Protection

7 bots to lower off. Glue ins!

Photos

Nick - Yeah, I put the top bolt in after much thought. I wanted to make sure that climbers followed the intended line - too far left and the rock is soft, too far right and it's an easier climb up the dihedral. Stay straight up the overhanging bulge and it's good rock, a clean fall, and some hard moves. Hope you enjoy! Jul 5, 2010
I tried way left on the fin and I agree the holds are suspect. It would be a cool feet cutting sequence but A. the bolt placement would send you on an epic whipper into the dihedral, B. your feet cutting would probably hit the left wall which is unfortunately too close. Damn!

I wound up cutting right to the dihedral and finishing that way, although big swinger if you fall there too. Jul 4, 2010
Found an easier sequence through the crux - now it feels like 11c/d, probably a little tougher for shorter climbers. Can be a solid 12+ if you miss some hidden gems... May 31, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
I'm pretty excited that you are going out and finding these new lines. The more you ad, the more I have to look forward to. If you ever need any help or a belay, IM me. I live in Watertown, like 1.5 hrs from the lake and about 2 hrs from Necedah, but I will make the trip for sweet shit like this! May 21, 2010
Thanks John. I'm pretty psyched to develop some new lines in WI. I think that with a "new school" mindset - i.e. looking for overhangs, roped boulder problems, and more dynamic movement - there's still a lot of "four star" climbs to be discovered here. I'm a little disappointed with rock quality and a lack of really tall features, but I can't afford to be too picky.

Hope you enjoy.

- keith May 17, 2010
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Nice work Keith. This climb looks rad! May 17, 2010