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Pretty Piece of Flesh
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 21
votes
Routes in 10. Above Anthrax
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Boulder without a View V0 4 |
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Climb with a View T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Guess What? Chicken Butt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Late Night Chalk Show S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ponyboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pretty Piece of Flesh S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Riverboat Amateur S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Riverboat Gambler S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Riverboat Hustler S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solo Crack (aka Pancake Crack) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Who is Bernd Arnold? (aka Pancake Slab) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Keith Hengen |
| Page Views: | 1,713 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | computerskillclimbing. on May 16, 2010 |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Scramble up some ledges and pull onto the slab. The rock quality is impressive for the slab, and the moves are fun. Move up the increasingly steep rock to the joint of the overhanging arrette/fin. Clip the last two bolts in the overhang, and bust through a burly boulder problem, following the line straight up from the last bolt. Safest to stay off of the fin 6 feet to your left - the rock seems a little more rotten there (although it would probably make for easier climbing, but the obvious line is harder, more fun, and on good rock).
Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.
If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.
Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.
If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.
Location
The top cliff band that houses the rest of Above Anthrax has an obvious break about 100' to the South of "Who is Bernd Arnold? (5.8)". This is just left (South) of the impressive roof. The break in the cliff is punctuated by a huge fin sticking out of a green dihedral on the top right wall - that's your climb! Scramble through slippery pine needles to the bottom of the slab. It's easiest to belay from the trail, not the ledges.
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