Type: Sport, 350 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Ken and Karen McMahon '99
Page Views: 1,700 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Another great multipitch moderate. A bit cleaner than Paparazzi Pete, and I love climbing on the jagged limestone.

P1 & 2 (5.9) 55m: Start on the first two pitches of Paparazzi Pete. Use the anchor directly at the top of the second pitch unless you have gear, in which case you can move of right about 20 feet and reduce a lot of drag on P3.

P3 (5.9) 25m: Traverse right around a slight bulge and then head straight up on thousands of little black spikes. Kind of a weird step right to the anchors.

P4 (5.10a) 25m: Reverse the weird step back left and continue up a slight corner. The anchor sits under the overhanging corner crack.

P5 (5.10b) 20m: Straight up a slightly overhanging corner crack. Fantastic.

Location

Straight up the middle a la Paparazzi Pete to the big ledge. Then move right to the black face and up to the crack splitting the top.

Protection

A dozen draws should be more than enough. All anchors are bolted.

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Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

Emma coming up P5
Emma coming up P5
 1
Looking down P4
Looking down P4
 1
Spiky goodness.
Spiky goodness.
 2
Landscape pic from the top
Landscape pic from the top
 1
Views from the top of pitch 4 (butterfly mtn to the left)
Views from the top of pitch 4 (butterfly mtn to…
 1
Spectators :)
Spectators :)
 1
me and ben on top of pitch 4
me and ben on top of pitch 4
 1
The Crag from the road
The Crag from the road
 1
great views the whole way up
great views the whole way up
 0
The goodness on P5
The goodness on P5
 0
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
 0

4 Comments

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Jim Althans
 
Jim Althans  
 
Wanted to share a video we just finished making from this climb. Incredible routes, lots of fun :)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=N4tkFU78T7U Mar 23, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a
I would describe the pitches thusly...
P1: Wandery, with a tricky crux out of the cavey section (5.9)
P2: Up to the roof and left, try not to pull on detached block (5.8)
P3: Move right to the spiky rock and straight up, short pitch (5.7)
P4: Long and wandery, with some cool moves broken up by ledges (5.9)
P5: The business. Crack climbing with face holds. Too short! (5.10a)

Saw a bolt above the P5 anchor, though didn't venture up so couldn't speak to what the topout rappel situation would be. Sep 13, 2016
Danielle Quinn
Plattsburgh, NY
 
Danielle Quinn   Plattsburgh, NY
 
Fantastic route. Highly recommend if in area. Yangshuo guidebook says P1 5.9, P2 5.7, P3 5.9, P4 5.9, and P5 5.10b, which I’d agree with 110%. Would recommend to build gear anchor at top of pitch 2 to the left of bolted anchor to reduce some serious rope drag Jan 4, 2018
David Miles
 
David Miles  
 
Did the route yesterday. Combined pitches 1 and 2 and also pitches 3 and 4. We did it in 3 pitches with an 80m rope. Also abseiled it the same way. There are bolts to the top out so no need to bring slings or trad gear for the topout. Awesome route! Mar 6, 2018