Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Pete Scott, Colin Spark '97|
|Page Views:||1,273 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010|
|Admins:||Dan Flynn, Nate Ball|
P1 (5.9) 30m: Starts on a corner between two caves. A long wandering line that has intermediate anchors about half way up if you want to break it up to reduce drag. More traditional than sporty, has some weird, slopey, friction sorta moves.
P2 (5.9) 22m: More of the same but a bit more direct. I vaguely remember some sort of minor roof that you step around. Finishes at the huge ledge.
P3 (5.10b) 25m: The money pitch. I recommend using the anchors directly under the climb to reduce drag. Go all the way left on the big ledge to the corner to set up a new anchor and continue up to a small alcove.
P4 (5.9) 20m: Continue up the growing corner. The grade eases off but so do the bolts. You need some traditional gear to lead this without it being runout.
Where the climb got its name from.