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Trickle and Resin

5.10-, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Pat Putnam, Eric Putnam, Mark Swank
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Glitter Box Area
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

30 m north and around from the corridor from Summer Assault. East facing wall which turns into a pinnacle at the top. Start on the chunky holds to the right and climb up and left onto the face to avoid a big prickly tree. Face with horizontal slits and 4 bolts to a 2 shut rap. Sm-med pro necessary, as with all the climbs along this stretch. This route is used to get up to the Lion's Den Area.

Location

Beyond the magical glen with Summer Assault and Two Bit Shuffle. Brush recently cleared, seen some use.

Protection

Small-medium pro and 4 bolts. Again, horizontal small cams, get used to it!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

AMH heading up. Note supplemental 1st piece of gear.
[Hide Photo] AMH heading up. Note supplemental 1st piece of gear.
Hanna looking up at the route. This is mid-May and the jacket and wool hat were really apt!
[Hide Photo] Hanna looking up at the route. This is mid-May and the jacket and wool hat were really apt!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] tricky for 5.9. can finish up to top of freestanding pillar via moderate cracks on left (watch for loose rock and bring webbing to sling summit boulder) Mar 28, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Indeed it is tricky for 5.9. I noted yesterday that it's rated 10- on Marty's foldout guide, but I used his book when I posted the route here and in the book it's rated 5.9. Changed the route rating to 10- now. Some cool, delicate moves on this and just a couple small to medium cams will protect just fine. Hard parts are bolted just fine. The upper part of the tower takes all sorts of pro and is easy climbing. Webbing at top needs to be removed and anchors added. Will decide whether it's worth it or not next time. For now, easiest to do first pitch to get into Lion's Den. Mar 6, 2017