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Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am

5.11+ PG13, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Merrill Bitter, Bret Ruckman
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Crescent Crack Buttress
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

I gave this route two stars out of four, but I have a feeling that many would probably give it one star or less. Sure, it's short, has some crumbly rock, a loose block or two in the crack, a few spooky gear placements, and a fair amount of awkward moves. But it's also a pretty cool, steep line that requires both endurance and finesse. I'd also give a couple stars to C.P.O.S. (located just to the left), so if you hate that route, you'd probably hate SJTYM too.

Here's the route description:

Start by pulling into a shallow right-facing flake, move right into a right-leaning groove, and then do a committing bellyflop/mantle to gain a small ledge with a fixed pin. It looks like you could also gain this ledge via easier ground to the right. Climb the left-facing flake/crack above. Getting into the flake/crack is pretty tricky, and a little scary with that ledge right below you. Follow the flake/crack to a bolt, and do a few balancey face moves to top out on a large slopey ledge.

Location

This route is the very obvious flake/wide crack located approximately 20 feet right of C.P.O.S. You can see the fixed pin above a ledge about 20 feet up.

Descent: Rap from chain anchors.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers, 1 set of cams from 0.5 inch (#1 TCU/Green Alien) to 5 inch (Purple #5 Camalot).