Slam, Jam, Thank You Ma'am
Trad, 60 ft,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Merrill Bitter, Bret Ruckman
> Wasatch Range
> Little Cottonwo…
> Crescent Crack Buttress
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More: saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
I gave this route two stars out of four, but I have a feeling that many would probably give it one star or less. Sure, it's short, has some crumbly rock, a loose block or two in the crack, a few spooky gear placements, and a fair amount of awkward moves. But it's also a pretty cool, steep line that requires both endurance and finesse. I'd also give a couple stars to C.P.O.S. (located just to the left), so if you hate that route, you'd probably hate SJTYM too.
Here's the route description:
Start by pulling into a shallow right-facing flake, move right into a right-leaning groove, and then do a committing bellyflop/mantle to gain a small ledge with a fixed pin. It looks like you could also gain this ledge via easier ground to the right. Climb the left-facing flake/crack above. Getting into the flake/crack is pretty tricky, and a little scary with that ledge right below you. Follow the flake/crack to a bolt, and do a few balancey face moves to top out on a large slopey ledge.
This route is the very obvious flake/wide crack located approximately 20 feet right of C.P.O.S. You can see the fixed pin above a ledge about 20 feet up.
Descent: Rap from chain anchors.
Small to medium stoppers, 1 set of cams from 0.5 inch (#1 TCU/Green Alien) to 5 inch (Purple #5 Camalot).