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Nobody's Darlings

5.10a, Sport, 215 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 8 votes
FA: William Maxwell, Reid Persing
Utah > W Desert > House Range > Marjum Canyon > Hermit Canyon > Second Tier

Description

On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13 bolts on the first pitch.
From the belay, the second pitch rises through a ramping corner, past two bolts, and mantles onto a ledge. It then moves up onto steeper terrain that finds a well protected crux moving from two nice jugs over a bulge on side pulls and crimps. A short but delicate traverse brings you back left 5 feet and straight upward to the second belay. The second pitch is about 100' and goes at 5.10 with the help of a few little hidden crimps.

Location

See Beta Photos. This route is a 2 min approach from the campsite.

Protection

set of QDs and a 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nobody's Darlings above the Hermit Road and campsite area. Photo looks east at the wall.
[Hide Photo] Nobody's Darlings above the Hermit Road and campsite area. Photo looks east at the wall.
From across the canyon. Climber mid-first pitch.
[Hide Photo] From across the canyon. Climber mid-first pitch.
Nobody's Darlings as seen looking east from the campsite.
[Hide Photo] Nobody's Darlings as seen looking east from the campsite.
Nobody's Darlings route map.
[Hide Photo] Nobody's Darlings route map.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Better have a 70 meter rope for this one. Sep 20, 2013
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb just a few minutes from the campsite. Great views across the valley, nice exposure, and fun movement. The intermediate belay is fairly comfortable on a thin ledge but the top is less so. Probably not worth it to bring the 2nd up to the top anchors with the leader. We had the leader get lowered from the top and then the follower cleaned and rapped from the top anchors. A 70 m rope is necessary for two raps (first is ~30 m and the second is a full 35 m). Knot your ropes. May 28, 2018