Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,871 total · 18/month
Shared By: boulderkeith on May 10, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route

38 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details


This climb is a short layback dihedral on the South American Boulders. At only 30' in length, it is short but is strenuous for the grade.


Zach Wahrer
Bozeman, MT
Zach Wahrer   Bozeman, MT  
Its easy to set up a TR (a #4, #3, and #2 C4 work nicely) on this climb by scrambling up the boulders around the right hand side from the crack. Marvel at the 13b arete climb as you pass by it. That thing is beast! Jan 29, 2011
Bishop, CA
DennisL   Bishop, CA
Beta: jamming your right foot straight makes the whole climb a lot less strenuous than a full layback.

A #4 is crucial and a #5 is twice as nice! Mar 19, 2014
marshall moose
Golden, Colorado
marshall moose   Golden, Colorado
I definitely would suggest a #5 unless you want to layback the whole thing and get it over with quickly. I severely dislike laybacks so I offwidth climbed it near the top - you can reach in and get fingers in the flake so it's pretty reasonable. Definitely worth stopping by on the way back from Buzzard's Roost. Dec 24, 2014
Neil Little
Neil Little   Austin
I decked on this, trying to get a piece in at about 12', friction not great and couldn't get a jam May 10, 2018
Nicholas van Rensburg
San Antonio, TX
Nicholas van Rensburg   San Antonio, TX
Great Climb however you get up it, a classic for a 5.8 at Erock Dec 30, 2018