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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Aaron Rashaw Ben Savage Matt Smith 1998
Page Views: 536 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is the lichen covered right facing corner just left of Pick Yer Crack. I think we left a pink tricam and nut as an anchor. I remember thinking this would be good with some serious BBQ brushes and heavy cleaning.

Location

Corner a few feet left of Pick Yer Crack

Protection

Standard NH Rack

Photos

Aaron Rashaw  
 
FF did take some "shallow corners" but the main feature I remember was a shorter vertical #1 camelot crack to the trees. When we came down I remember rapping over a hard to spot KB crack/seam that sparked interest. As far as further left I remember lots of rock but not as many features. Aug 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I didn't get over and low enough to have a close look at the arete. I was on a tension traverse to get over to where I took the photo. I did rap into the top further over to the left, but I guess not quite far enough for French Free. I saw a line that went up nice scoops and shallow corners of the same high quality granite as over on the Meadow Brook slabs, but unfortunately, there looked to be a 15 foot blank section 2/3s of the way up. I'll have a good look next time I am over there. I am curious about what is on all that other rock further to the left too. Did you guys ever get up into that area? From the ground it looked like it could be fairly extensive above the somewhat broken lower part. Aug 10, 2012
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Does the arĂȘte to the left have any features on it? I remember thinking about that as a potential line. Also, the slab further left has a blade type seam splitting it, pretty thin if I remember? Aug 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I'm glad I rapped in to take a look at this and Pick Your Crack. They are much longer and better looking than they look from below. They have gone up high on my list of to-dos. The rock quality looks super nice. It looked like a good line might go in to the right also, starting from the beginning of 357 Crack. Aug 9, 2012