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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 60 ft
FA: Dave Martin Aaron Rashaw 1998
Page Views: 749 total, 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Thin dirty crack to a thin hands crack/donger flake thru a roof. Slings are visible I think?

Location

Up hill where the alcove kind of ends and starts to turn into a more vertical cliff.

Protection

Standard NH Rack

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yes, the big flake making the left side of the crack at the top is donger, but it seems pretty well attached at the top. I think it will be all right, though I wouldn't put a cam under it at the bottom. Luckily there is bomber solid gear in the finger crack leading too it, and it is just air below, so you can move up higher before putting a cam straight in to protect getting to the anchor. Pulling the roof crack is going to be a blast. Sep 7, 2012
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Is the roof donger? I seem to remember that spooking us, just curious. Aug 28, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Yeah, lol. I was guessing maybe low 11 up to the first anchor. I surprised myself and got it first try, but I was pretty pumped at the end. That could very well be due to the fact that it was my third day on cleaning and I have hardly been able to climb this year. We'll have to see what it is like on lead and have others do it to get an accurate grade. It looks like the top will probably bump the whole thing up some.

There is a long angling line to the right of it that looks really good too and a possible easier route up left, so there will be a nice cluster there when done. Aug 28, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
At least 9+.. right Mark ? Aug 28, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I finally got back to this this weekend, after putting anchors in at the top with NHclimber a couple years ago. I got it pretty well cleaned up to the gear anchor at the top of the crack below the roof and TRed it, self belay. I have to finish cleaning the roof and upper crack to see how that goes and then go for the lead. At the bottom I stood on the blocks to the left and then took the upper right angling crack to get out to the zig and the obvious middle finger/hand crack.

So far, it looks like another Green's classic. I have to get some other photos that do it justice, hopefully with someone on it. In Rumney terms, the bottom is like the start of Cereal Killer, then the middle of Flying Monkeys, then Black Jack Crack to the roof of Giantman, with a wide fist finish (just what you need when you are all pumped!) instead of thin technical, except that it is crack climbing and granite, so not really alike at all, but that gives the flavor. I think the height all the way to the top is more like 80+ feet, but I'll give it a measure with my rope and check. Aug 28, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
I been telling people that there can be some crazy ice at green's May 10, 2010
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Yup. May 10, 2010
Aaron Rashaw  
 
yeah I'm pretty sure that is it, the bottom looks more familiar now. May 10, 2010
Aaron Rashaw  
 
Not as sure on that one...I think maybe? Is the route up hill a bit in the alcove? Is the tree in the pic obscuring the flake/roof on top? Don't remember much else in that area so it could be it. May 10, 2010