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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C0
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Aid, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Rashaw Steve Dupuis November 1998
Page Views: 961 total · 10/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

Obvious crack splitting a big roof.

We got snowed on and it turned to night while doing this climb. We were soft compared to Shackleton, Hurley and the bunch.

Edit- The first pitch has been freed at 5.11 by Ray Rice via the direct start up the (previously climbed)5.8 flake system below. Both pitches could still use substantially more cleaning (crumbly rock on the upper part of the first pitch), and there is no anchor above the roof.

Location

Middle part of the alcove where the cliff turns.

Protection

Standard NH Rack.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
OK, I finally figured out correctly which roof this is yesterday and rapped in to check it out. It is pretty obvious after the fact, lol. The roof looks to be totally freeable to me and very cool. It is about 12 feet and about 110 feet off the deck. I have to bring more gear with me next weekend to aid in and clean to confirm that. Above is another long pitch up a handcrack up a slab to a wild flake up a steep buttress. I was able to do a big pendulum under the roof and get in to a an old bolted anchor, where I attached my rope for cleaning next weekend. Getting up to the anchor starts with about 30+ feet of beautiful layback flake to a ledge, where I will probably put a sub anchor since it is such a nice moderate in itself (5.8?). After the ledge is harder vertical flake and crack climbing to the anchor, then maybe 15 ft to the roof.

Aaron and Steve, the line looks amazing, but man, you guys were crazy. It was a good thing it got dark. Maybe you couldn't see it all. There is so much big stuff that needs to get trundled that you climbed on. I'm bringing a big bar next time. This line has got me psyched. I am going to work on it while my projects on the main wall are in the blazing sun. May 21, 2012
Aaron Rashaw
  5.11 C2-
Aaron Rashaw  
  5.11 C2-
I don't remember the roof being that high off the ground (110 ft) but it was a while ago. I do remember some crack systems after the roof on lower angle terrain that looked like they would need some gardening. The roof crack was 4 camalotish at the end and a little flared. I'd love to see some pics of you guys sending! Aug 1, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Here are a few photos from my exploration. I ended up cleaning the route some, but pulled my rope for now realizing that I need to finish up some of my numerous other projects before biting into this one.
Note - Currently there is no anchor above the roof. Aug 9, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
From Bayard's note under the Main Wall section - "Ray also free climbed climbed, ground-up, the first pitch of what appears to be The Endurance. He started on a previously cleaned flake system off the ground, and headed straight up into a thin crack, flakes and eventually some kitty litter granite in a small hanging corner. He lowered off a two bolt anchor below the roof and mumbled something about 5.11 and never wanting to go up there again. " Oct 19, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ray, would you mind if I put an anchor above the ledge for the lower flakes some time? While I was cleaning on this earlier I had soloed the lower flakes and traversed off at the ledge. I was thinking to put an anchor there as a nice easy/warm-up route for the crag, but was waiting to see how much harder the climbing above turned out to be after cleaning. Oct 19, 2013

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