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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C0
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Dupuis Aaron Rashaw October 1st 1998 (Ao then TR ), Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper, free lead Oct 2013
Page Views: 755 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

Brushy low angle climbing to a beautiful splitter finger crack, tips to rattly fingers. Might be a fixed LA down low getting to the splitter? The route was lead with mixed free/aid and top roped clean.

In 2013 a variant was freed by Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper at 10c using a different start, beginning just left of the start of Angel (357) and moving left around the arete to gain the crack. See note below

Location [Suggest Change]

Head all the way down to the left (lower) edge of the Alcove and scramble down past a huge boulder to swing around the corner. On the right, above some slabby ledge, you will see a right facing corner with a crack (Green Dolphin Street) and an inviting looking vertical finger crack to it's right, Pick Your Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Single rack to 1", maybe an extra yellow TCU. Crack goes from tips to rattly finger, old bolt anchor (needs to be replaced)


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
From a note from Conor Cliffe

"We (Conor and Tom Draper) also freed 'pick yer crack' at 10c. you have a good description of it on MP already. we began on the block down low and left from Angel and whipped around the arete - we felt that the aid party had a better approach (ours was a little spicy). Single rack to 1''. Crack goes from tips to rattly fingers. Beautiful. Very pure. There is a an old two bolt anchor up there. I will replace them when I get a chance and go do the anchor on Angel. Could use some cleaning - a little crude as is. We called it 'Divine Intervention'. "

Thanks, Conor Oct 9, 2013

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