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Routes in The Western Wing & Alcove

357 aka Angel (free version) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Alien Encounters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Endurance, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- PG13
French Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Green Eggs and Cams T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c A1
Jug Monkey T A1-2
On Green Dolphin Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Dupuis Aaron Rashaw October 1st 1998 (Ao then TR ), Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper, free lead Oct 2013
Page Views: 732 total, 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Brushy low angle climbing to a beautiful splitter finger crack, tips to rattly fingers. Might be a fixed LA down low getting to the splitter? The route was lead with mixed free/aid and top roped clean.

In 2013 a variant was freed by Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper at 10c using a different start, beginning just left of the start of Angel (357) and moving left around the arete to gain the crack. See note below

Location

Head all the way down to the left (lower) edge of the Alcove and scramble down past a huge boulder to swing around the corner. On the right, above some slabby ledge, you will see a right facing corner with a crack (Green Dolphin Street) and an inviting looking vertical finger crack to it's right, Pick Your Crack.

Protection

Single rack to 1", maybe an extra yellow TCU. Crack goes from tips to rattly finger, old bolt anchor (needs to be replaced)

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
From a note from Conor Cliffe

"We (Conor and Tom Draper) also freed 'pick yer crack' at 10c. you have a good description of it on MP already. we began on the block down low and left from Angel and whipped around the arete - we felt that the aid party had a better approach (ours was a little spicy). Single rack to 1''. Crack goes from tips to rattly fingers. Beautiful. Very pure. There is a an old two bolt anchor up there. I will replace them when I get a chance and go do the anchor on Angel. Could use some cleaning - a little crude as is. We called it 'Divine Intervention'. "

Thanks, Conor Oct 9, 2013