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Avg: 2.4 from 16
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1975
> Near Trapps
> d. Harvest Moon to th…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears. For more information please view mohonkpreserve.org/index.ph…
Thoughtful face climbing with just enough protection.
Boulder past a thin seam (this has a very short, shallow slot that is about 8-10 feet up) to a small overhang. Go left a foot or two, then move up to good holds at the base of another thin crack. Make the crux move past this. Belay at the pine tree.
Protection: You need some very small nuts and very small cams.
40' left of Eowyn, which is marked by the notch in the long shallow overhang. The thin seam with the shallow slot is pretty obvious.