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Routes in The Sorcerer

Sorcerer's Crossing T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978
Page Views: 1,450 total · 14/month
Shared By: Shanti on May 9, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.

Protection

Rack: Singles from fingers to hands, extra large gear (Big Bros, #6 and #5 Camalots)
2010: All anchors at belay stations replaced.

Photos

Shanti
  5.11d
Shanti  
  5.11d
Pitch 3 of this route is one of the most wild and difficult vertical offwidth squeeze chimneys in the desert and was established by Jim Dunn before the invention of Big Bros or big cams. This route is still a sandbag over 30 years later.

May 11, 2010
Evan Deis
  5.11d R
Evan Deis  
  5.11d R
P3 is a nice squeeze chimney like Charlie Sheen a good father figure. Single rack is good. (2x) 5+6. I also recommend 2-3 tips sized pieces. I had 1x purple Mastercam and wish I'd had more. This will help backup an old leaper at the start of p3.

'Big thanks to Dunn, Coyne, and Wood for this wild and unique experience.
Other thanks to Shanti for the new anchors.

Also; It could be my imagination but I think this route deserves an S Rating. Apr 4, 2017
rkrum
Here and there
 
rkrum   Here and there
 
Perhaps unsurprising given the cast of characters on the FA team, this is still a desert wide crack/adventure testpiece 40 years later. Pitch 3 is a truly unforgettable experience that speaks to the boldness, talent and vision of Dunn, et al.

I second the recommendation for a couple green c3/blue alien sized pieces on P3 - I had zero interest in bouldering up to clip the fixed pin, and those drilled pins are older than me. I also made the regrettable mistake of thinking I was done after the "obvious crux". Saving 1-2 green or blue bros for the top would help reduce the overall amount of mental duress. Jun 12, 2017

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