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Routes in The Sorcerer
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Sorcerer's Crossing T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Dunn and Chris Wood, 1977 FFA: Jim Dunn and Leonard Coyne, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,450 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Shanti on May 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Climbs up the left side of the pillar. Pitch 1: 5.10 offwidth past 3 star-drives to 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 5.9+ wild chimney/tunnel to 3 bolt-anchor. Pitch 3: Strenuous and unique 5.11d off-width/squeeze chimney past two drilled angles and one lead bolt to two bolt anchor. Pitch 3 is the crux - exposed and committing. Decent: 3 rappels down route.
May 11, 2010
'Big thanks to Dunn, Coyne, and Wood for this wild and unique experience.
Other thanks to Shanti for the new anchors.
Also; It could be my imagination but I think this route deserves an S Rating. Apr 4, 2017
Here and there
I second the recommendation for a couple green c3/blue alien sized pieces on P3 - I had zero interest in bouldering up to clip the fixed pin, and those drilled pins are older than me. I also made the regrettable mistake of thinking I was done after the "obvious crux". Saving 1-2 green or blue bros for the top would help reduce the overall amount of mental duress. Jun 12, 2017