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Routes in Circus Wall

Clown School S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Contortionist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
High Wire Act S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ly'n and Stealin' S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Overboard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stealin' a Lion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Trapezius S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unnamed, 5.11a S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed, 5.11a 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Dan Hague, 2000
Page Views: 683 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on May 9, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is probably one of the lower quality lines on this wall, and it's still really good! It starts out steep and juggy and finishes steep and techy. Stick clip the first bolt and traverse out left. Trend back up and right aiming for the arete. At the 3rd bolt, getting a stance to clip it is the crux. From here, follow the arete to a great rest and gain the slightly overhanging face at the 5th bolt. Use small holds to head up and a bit left and then back a bit right to top it out (redpoint crux). It's a long way to the anchors from the last bolt, but the hardest moves are well protected. There's a hidden really good hold up there, but you have to find it!

Location

This is the 2nd to last line on the Circus Wall proper. Just as the trail heads up and around the corner, you'll see a steep sport route that leads to the arete.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

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Safety Dan
  5.12a
Safety Dan  
  5.12a
Sent on 7/23 but some corrections to the entry. There are now 6 bolts on the route, I think one between the old bolt 4-5. Also, bolt 1 is spinning and pulling out from the wall, should be replaced. Finally, measured the route with our rope and its more like 65-70 feet rather than 50 but that is slightly debatable depending where you count the start, but still longer than 50 ft. Great route with a really awesome upper crux guarding a fun top out Jul 26, 2016