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Kuna Crest Traverse - Mammoth Peak to Kuna Peak

5.0, Trad, Grade IV,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Lyell Canyon &… > Kuna Crest Area
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Description

A good way to spend time up high in Yosemite. About four miles of this traverse is at 12,000 ft.

From the Toulumne Lodge, hike the trail toward Mt. Lyell. Walk past the turn off to Vogelsang before turning off the trail and heading toward Mammoth Peak. Cross the river and scramble up the peak's northwest side.

From the top of Mammoth Peak, traverse south (2nd class) hitting apprx. seven high points.

The crux is a sawtooth section linking the Kuna Crest and Kuna Peak. The rock is dangerous here, rope up and try to stay as high as you can on the formations.

After passing the crux, walk (2nd class) south and east along terrain reminiscent of the Dana Plateau toward an increasingly visible Kuna Peak.

Cross a deep notch and climb to the top of Kuna Peak (3rd class).

Scramble down to the Lyell Fork of the Toulumne River and follow the easy trail back to the Toulumne Meadows Lodge.

Location

This Traverse starts and ends at the Toulumne Meadows Lodge. Can include Mt. Lyell and Maclure, even Simmons if you still have more to give.

Mammoth Peak is easier to summit from the Tioga Road east of Toulumne Lodge so this is another start/finish option.

Protection

Standard light and thin alpine rack. Short rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down from Mammoth Peak
[Hide Photo] Looking down from Mammoth Peak
Heading up Mammoth Peak of the Kuna area
[Hide Photo] Heading up Mammoth Peak of the Kuna area
Heading into the jagged crux of the ridge. Photo by JR Berry
[Hide Photo] Heading into the jagged crux of the ridge. Photo by JR Berry
The crux is passing the sawtooth section in the middle of this photo.  Kuna Peak is cut off on the left border of this photo.
[Hide Photo] The crux is passing the sawtooth section in the middle of this photo. Kuna Peak is cut off on the left border of this photo.
Taken from the Hyw 120.  Mammoth Peak on the right, Kuna Peak on the left in the distance, and the Kuna crest between the two.
[Hide Photo] Taken from the Hyw 120. Mammoth Peak on the right, Kuna Peak on the left in the distance, and the Kuna crest between the two.
Notch somewhere in along the route. Photo by JR Berry
[Hide Photo] Notch somewhere in along the route. Photo by JR Berry
Close-up of the crux.
[Hide Photo] Close-up of the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Schilowitz
California
[Hide Comment] This route is 90% class 1-2 talus walking with amazing views. The sawtooth crux section is terribly loose, but thankfully climbing difficulties never exceed 4th or easy 5th. The main challenge is getting around the first notch you encounter from the North. I scrambled directly down a squeeze chimney on the East side of the notch, while others in my party went all the way down to the snow and around to the low point. I would recommend against bringing a rope. There are virtually 0 worthwhile protection opportunities and the rope would just be snaking around loose blocks. All in all, excellent scenery and a cool way to see Yosemite, but not really much in the way of a solid climbing route. Sep 1, 2023