Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,400 total · 13/month
Shared By: tscupp on May 9, 2010
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Start matched on a crimp that I guess looks like an axe head (doesn't to me) about 6 feet up. Pull off the ground and use a high left foot to make a hard move up to two crimps in a slot. A small but helpful intermediate softens the precision needed for this move. Finish with one more move to the lip and then top out.

I've always seen this listed as v2, but it is hard as heck for a 2 imo. The bigger your fingers, the harder the move since the slot is rather tiny despite all the chalk there.

Location

center of the wall, obvious chalked hold with the slots above.

Protection

pad

Photos

chris21
  V2+
chris21  
  V2+
Is a V7 sit start, same start as Rump to Jump but work out left and up New Direction, instead of out right May 26, 2010
S. Neoh
V3
S. Neoh  
V3
Yes, old school rating has this as a V2. Yeah, right.
Same style of rating as Mack's at V1, Neil's at V2+, and Iron Cross at V3.
I happen to think V3 is right for New Direction (at least for a shortie like me :)). Jul 7, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
FA - Ed Sewall, late '80s Jan 21, 2012
Hardest bloody V2 that I've ever done...think this part took longer to get then the lower half of New Dimension. Bigger fingers be warned...lots of fun rock poking. Apr 26, 2012
TonyG
  V3-
TonyG  
  V3-
When you go left hand into the crack, make sure your fingers angle in slightly to the right...not straight in. Definitely felt like a V3 to me (especially being short). Feb 22, 2013
S. Neoh
V3
S. Neoh  
V3
I flashed Neil's (that is before the good hold high up on it got smaller) but this bugger took me many tries to send (kept missing the letterbox slot). Pretty sure I got to work both to send now. :( Feb 23, 2013
ckersch
  V4
ckersch  
  V4
For me, this is the crux of clutch dimension, and has harder moves than either Cave Roof or Niel's Lunge. It's only two moves, but I don't think that makes it a V2-3... Apr 18, 2013