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Routes in West Buttress

Cryptogamic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobelty S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Cheek, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Toe S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Toe S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin' It S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacroiliac Joint T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sciatica T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scratchin' It S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Toe T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Jerry Klatt and Ron Brown
Page Views: 658 total, 7/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 8, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A nice 5.7 friction climb marred by a difficult and contrived start. The crux requires some awkward smearing between the first two bolts, but I suspect you could bypass this by starting a few feet up the gully just to the right of the route. The rest of the climb ascends a nice, low angle slab with pleasing moves.

Location

The first route to the left of "Knobelty". Just a few feet left of the aptly named "Butt Groove" gully.

Protection

7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor (shared with "The Left Cheek", 5.8, a climb that starts ~ 6 feet left of "Pickin' It")

Photos

bergbryce
California
bergbryce   California
If you move up and left after the first bolt for a couple moves on large features, then stem right towards the second bolt, you can avoid the tricky 5.9 smearing and keep the climb at the 5.7 grade without too much hassle.
Using this variation makes for a good lead for a new leader on slab. Oct 9, 2011
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
The start is not fun, but worth doing for the great slab moves between knobs above. Aug 24, 2011