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Routes in West Buttress

Cryptogamic T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobelty S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Cheek, The S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Toe S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle Toe S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pickin' It S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sacroiliac Joint T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sciatica T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scratchin' It S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Short Toe T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 45 ft
FA: Jerry Klatt and Ron Brown
Page Views: 907 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on May 8, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The middle of three routes on the clean face on the far left side of the West Buttress. These routes are packed tightly together so you have to follow the bolt lines fairly precisely if you want the listed ratings.

For the "Middle Toe", make a tricky mantle start and then cruise slabby terrain until you reach a slight bulge. The crux is getting your feet over this bulge, and is very well protected by bolt three. From here, easier but still occassionally thought-provoking smearing leads to the anchor.

A good route to work on your friction technique.

Location

Far left side, of the West Buttress, about 50 feet left (around the corner) from "Knobelty"

"Middle Toe" is, you guessed it, the middle of the three face climbs in this on this side of the crag. "Long Toe", 5.8, is just to its right, and "Short Toe", 5.10b (requires some gear), is just to its left.

Protection

4 or 5 bolts to a two-bolt anchor shared with the three "Toe" routes

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