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Routes in Left End

Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock n Road T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw & Leslie Kelch
Page Views: 312 total, 3/month
Shared By: Rick Bradshaw on May 7, 2010
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A slabby start leads to steep, thin, balancy, tricky moves. The FA was preceded by a few rope flipping falls, which can be avoided if one performs a crucial foot switch to keep the rope from catching a leg before the harness. A relatively long and fun climb, as long as you watch your step.

Location

The leftmost bolted route on Early Wall. The trail up to the left side of the mesa passes nearby making that the easiest approach.

Protection

All bolts, fixed anchors at the top.

Photos

Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
 
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
 
I got on this route this year for the first time since we established it ~10 years ago and found it safer, more fun, and harder than I'd remembered. It appears that it has seen very few ascents, perhaps because of the name or because of its relative isolation for the grade. Regardless, while I still feel it only deserves 2*s it is definitely worth doing. I took several falls at the crux, a 4 move bolder problem, which resulted in bruises only to my ego. May 27, 2011