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Routes in 0. Henderson's Buttress

Achille's Heel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Bull Dog T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Henderson T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Muir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
No Guts, No Glory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C0
Noonie Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Our Mine's I T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stoned T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft
FA: Bradley White and Teresa Nagle 6/06 and Takuya Yoshida 5/10
Page Views: 1,301 total, 14/month
Shared By: bradley white on May 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

I split this pitch in two because there was a loose rock to deal with 100ft up. I had an epic time with the rock. Didn't know how loose it was until I met it during the crux. Rocks like that are such bad news and ruin the fun to climbing. It's gone. Trundled on rappel. Now it's like it never existed and the crux is great because it's so steep and solid enough, classic (5.5).
The start is still being worked out. For now go up the 'Odessa Steps' start and go right after the low angle corner facing south. At top of the corner is access to the white and green granite face. Climb up and left after stepping up onto the block or move right on foot ledge (run out from bolt and 5.7). Now move right on foot ledges until below the steepest rock. This steep rock ends with a protrusion. Also there is an excellent section to climb far right (way beyond my free climbing ability). Other various ways are available at higher difficulty but needed are bolts for protection. For now this way is on the weakest rock and the easiest moves upward. After steepest section move right and upward (5.0) to the belay ledge.
I don't know of anyone else that climbs on the south side. This area has excellent hand holds on the steep protrusions, foot holds on the faces and ramps that are clean steep and smooth. All of this is below the same belay station. To the right of this section the rock gets dangerous quickly.
I got half way up the second pitch (Serpentine pitch) in 2008 but Teresa Nagle and I got rained off. There are two ways to do the first half of the second pitch. Going right and up the slab ramps far right from the start has the best climbing (worst protection) and is a dead end. Going straight up and right is awkward could be harder (5.6). Either way the protection sucks on the second pitch so far and both are to the same dead end. Serpentine is being abandoned for now.

Location

Take the W.G.R. Trail until you can go left below ridge. Go left on a faint trail (be wary there is a small patch of poison ivy) Go until on Cannon there is a climb called 'The Odessa Steps'. The first pitch of Bull Dog has the same start. It will have it's own start later.

Protection

a bolt, then two bolts together, again two bolts together. The belay station has three bolts and one iffy pin.

Photos

Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Bulldog is a Cannon "sport climb". Although the bolts are VERY wideley spaced, so falling is not recommended. The climbing is very moderate, though, so any solid climber should feel pretty comfortable on this terrain. The route does zigzag a bit, so be sure to use an extended alpine draw on each bolt. Some of them may even desire double extension. Brad bolted this climb on while short rope soloing, so the one long pitch was originally divided up into a few pitches, and it serves as a protecable gateway to "Our Mine's I" which can be taken to the top of the cliff if desired. Apr 8, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
youtube.com/watch?v=LtA3zkU…


See where Brad is standing... To the left is the "diving board". Clip bolt on the left hand side of the diving board with an extended runner (4 feet), and flip the rope over the diving board. Hop onto the diving board, clip the next bolt on the to the left, and go. Jun 8, 2011
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
youtube.com/watch?v=jLUN37R…


Technically, this is a different climb (Bull Dog turns into Our Mine's I ), but I have included this video to give more perspective. We did end up working up through the "Diving Board" I found to be stable and very climbable, with a great belay ledge up over the top on which Brad fixed a solid double bolt anchor. Jun 8, 2011
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Nice, i'll have to check this out. May 7, 2010