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Routes in 0. Henderson's Buttress
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Achille's Heel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bull Dog T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Henderson T 5.15d 9c 39 XIII- 41 E11 8c PG13 |
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Mind Over Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Muir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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No Guts, No Glory T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C0 |
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Noonie Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Our Mine's I T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Pinky and the Brain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Quick Silver (variation on Muir Buttress) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Two Stoned T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Bradley White and Teresa Nagle 6/06 and Takuya Yoshida 5/10 |
| Page Views: | 2,191 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on May 7, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I split this pitch in two because there was a loose rock to deal with 100ft up. I had an epic time with the rock. Didn't know how loose it was until I met it during the crux. Rocks like that are such bad news and ruin the fun to climbing. It's gone. Trundled on rappel. Now it's like it never existed and the crux is great because it's so steep and solid enough, classic (5.5).
The start is still being worked out. For now go up the 'Odessa Steps' start and go right after the low angle corner facing south. At top of the corner is access to the white and green granite face. Climb up and left after stepping up onto the block or move right on foot ledge (run out from bolt and 5.7). Now move right on foot ledges until below the steepest rock. This steep rock ends with a protrusion. Also there is an excellent section to climb far right (way beyond my free climbing ability). Other various ways are available at higher difficulty but needed are bolts for protection. For now this way is on the weakest rock and the easiest moves upward. After steepest section move right and upward (5.0) to the belay ledge.
I don't know of anyone else that climbs on the south side. This area has excellent hand holds on the steep protrusions, foot holds on the faces and ramps that are clean steep and smooth. All of this is below the same belay station. To the right of this section the rock gets dangerous quickly.
I got half way up the second pitch (Serpentine pitch) in 2008 but Teresa Nagle and I got rained off. There are two ways to do the first half of the second pitch. Going right and up the slab ramps far right from the start has the best climbing (worst protection) and is a dead end. Going straight up and right is awkward could be harder (5.6). Either way the protection sucks on the second pitch so far and both are to the same dead end. Serpentine is being abandoned for now.
The start is still being worked out. For now go up the 'Odessa Steps' start and go right after the low angle corner facing south. At top of the corner is access to the white and green granite face. Climb up and left after stepping up onto the block or move right on foot ledge (run out from bolt and 5.7). Now move right on foot ledges until below the steepest rock. This steep rock ends with a protrusion. Also there is an excellent section to climb far right (way beyond my free climbing ability). Other various ways are available at higher difficulty but needed are bolts for protection. For now this way is on the weakest rock and the easiest moves upward. After steepest section move right and upward (5.0) to the belay ledge.
I don't know of anyone else that climbs on the south side. This area has excellent hand holds on the steep protrusions, foot holds on the faces and ramps that are clean steep and smooth. All of this is below the same belay station. To the right of this section the rock gets dangerous quickly.
I got half way up the second pitch (Serpentine pitch) in 2008 but Teresa Nagle and I got rained off. There are two ways to do the first half of the second pitch. Going right and up the slab ramps far right from the start has the best climbing (worst protection) and is a dead end. Going straight up and right is awkward could be harder (5.6). Either way the protection sucks on the second pitch so far and both are to the same dead end. Serpentine is being abandoned for now.
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