Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Graveside Matter Slab

Dementor's Kiss S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Faceplant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghost Rider S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lap Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mulato S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pass Through S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Nargles S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Pete Van Slooten
Page Views: 2,373 total, 26/month
Shared By: ZachBradford on May 6, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Commonly know as "Too much chalk not enough lycra".
Route starts on a strange and surprisingly delicate traverse through two bolts. You then move straight up the face. The crux of the route is found on the bulge right at the beginning. Once you move over the bulge you continue up a beautiful vertical face on edges with a pocket or two thrown in the mix. finishes with a short slab run to the chains. One of the best routes for the grade in Cedar Canyon.

Location

The route is found up and left of the graveside matter wall slab. Start the traverse by scrambling up to the left nearly to the corner until you can easily gain access the ledge you will traverse.

Protection

Bolts to Rap anchors

Photos

Kalon
St. George, Utah
 
Kalon   St. George, Utah
 
When it says up and left of the graveside matter wall, it means up and RIGHT. so like continuing right after the main wall, you pass a pillar with 2 routes on it (one is the 5.12a Death to Smoochie) and continue like you're going to the upper tier. But instead of going left to the upper tier you go right over to the lone climb that starts with a traverse. the route runs just left of the tinny tree growing out of the wall about 30 feet up. It's right above and left of the slab climbs there. May 16, 2014
ZachBradford  
 
I felt it was solid .12a but it is probably important to note the crux bulge must be done completely different by a short individual as compared to someone tall. A tall climber can reach an upper hold off of decent hold while a short climber must use "wizard beta" involving a bunchy heel-hook and slopers to get to the hold.

What Pete said about the grade.

"When I bolted it, I rated it 11c/d but I am tall and had the moves dialed from bolting it, I guess .12a is a good overall rating for someone walking up to it sight unseen." May 11, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Best route name. Ever. May 6, 2010