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Routes in Buffalo Mountain

South Side of Buffalo Pinnacle T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 85 ft, Grade IV
FA: Stan Wagon & Joe Kramarsic, 2003?
Page Views: 1,471 total, 16/month
Shared By: Zac Snelling on May 4, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is definitely an 'adventure climb'. The leader starts by standing on a loose block that overlooks a 200' drop. From here, begin climbing up the 10' face then move left onto slabby areas and work up a wide diagonal crack. From here, route find your way between the two prominent 'horns' that comprise the summit. Rope drag, bad falls, and loose rock are all issues here.


Finding this feature is easiesy accomplished from the top down as opposed to the bottom up. Climb Buffalo Mountain and carefully make your way down Y-Coluior and you will see it sticking up prominently to the left.


Standard rack.


stan wagon
5.6 PG13
stan wagon  
5.6 PG13
Just found this report. So someone finally found the jar Joe Kramarsic and I left in ...2003. My notes called it 5.6. I don't recall anything close to the difficulty of, say, Bastille Crack. [Of course, it is possible you took a slightly different route to the same summit; can't quite tell.]

The S side of the pinnacle, which you and I did, is certainly the easiest way. I wonder if anyone will ever try the N side of the pinnacle, which looks like a much longer climb.

We did it as you did, by climbing Buffalo to the summit and descending to find the pinnacle. After the climb, we continued down to the valley between Buff and Red, I think with one very short rappel or rope aid at a step.

And, yes, this is the N side of Buffalo, but the S side of the Pinnacle (which we call the Buffalo Horn).

Stan Wagon, Silverthorne Jun 27, 2013
Valdez, AK
Taylor-B.   Valdez, AK
That looks like the north side of Buffalo with the big rock buttress of Red Mountain in the background. Oct 5, 2010
Rick Blair
Rick Blair   Denver
Thanks for putting this up. Awesome job! To me this is what mountain project is all about. May 13, 2010