PRINT: Rock Climb Lucy in the Sky, Devil's Race Track

Lucy in the Sky

5.9, Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 19 votes
FA: unknown
Tennessee > Devil's Race Track > N Face

Description

150' feet of fun climbing. First pitch is more enjoyable than the second. If you top out, rappel down to the ledge, then pull the rope, and rap of the ledge. Or trail a second rope, and do it all in one rap.

Location

Located directly after the trail splits to go to either North Face or the Alley. Go to the North Face, and walk around the nose, and you will see a string of draws going up a darker section of rock. This is Lucy in the Sky. It is the tallest section of the rock as well.

Protection

10-12 draws... 15 feet between the bolts is the norm. First pitch ends on a ledge with open cold shuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jakub at the anchors of the 2nd pitch.

Anchors and ledge of 1st pitch.

Rapping from ledge of first pitch

Leading up the first pitch of LITS

bottom of Lucy In The Sky

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Reece Henson
Knoxville, TN

you don't need 10-12 draws unless you do it all in one pitch. so if you only have 8 draws you'll be fine if you pitch both out Jul 12, 2010

Garrett Gregg

The bees are still there at the 4th bolt. You can go around to the left. May 1, 2013

Keegan McCormick
Hixson, TN

Attempted going to the far left of the bees at the 4th bolt, partner was swarmed and had to bail. Jul 22, 2013

kyle howe
Knoxville, TN

Define swarmed? I'm wanting to give Lucy in the Sky a shot soon, but it sounds like it may not be worth the risk! Any viable solutions to this bee issue at the 4th bolt? Aug 4, 2013

adoit90
Atlanta, GA

Does anywone know if the bees are still a problem here? I'm interested, but not if there's a chance of getting swarmed. Feb 13, 2014

adoit90
Atlanta, GA

Hey Khowe, did you get a chance to check on the bees? Also, do you know what kind of anchors there are at the top of the second pitch? I saw there's cold shuts at the top of the first, but I haven't found anything about the 2nd anchors anywhere. Mar 3, 2014

kyle howe
Knoxville, TN

No bee activity (March 11, 2014). Mar 11, 2014

Bob Rob

The honey bee nest looks pretty huge and active as of May 30, 2015. Our leader went around to the left and placed some gear without getting stung. You could probably follow a similar route without placing any pieces. Don't fall on the fifth bolt or you will land in bee city!

Unfortunately, the rap line from the hanging belay anchor near the top seems like it will take you right past the bees. If you top out there are some eye bolts on the side of the fin. We replaced the manky cord and extended it over the top to the opposite side of the fin. We then used two ropes to rap down into the alley just to be safe on length.

But this is really a great route and worth doing. I was very impressed. We did it in one pitch plus the 10 foot run to the top out. The bees and anchor replacement made it feel a little adventurous, so be confident if you try. May 31, 2015

Jim Urbec
Sevierville, TN

climbed this yesterday.

bees were definitely still there, cooler temps kept activity low but definitely not dormant or dead. move past quick and you be fine.

great two pitch climb.

bolts and anchors looked great. there is an old set of chains just below the top, clip it and continue to actual top. Oct 17, 2016

none none

This is a great climb! The bees are now dormant, and it looked like the beehive was knocked off because only the top of it was remaining. Hopefully they don't return in the spring...

The first pitch is straightforward face climbing with plenty of large, friendly holds. There is a slight run out between bolts, so make sure the leader is solid on the sharp end.

The belay ledge is comfy, with plenty of room to stand. The first bolt to the second pitch can be reached from the ledge which is nice. I do warn that it is VERY difficult for the climber to communicate with the belayer due to the noise of the highway and wind, so make sure you agree on a plan before heading up the second pitch. Off the ledge, I followed the jugs up and right, but my partner went up and left and thought that was easier.

The second pitch is definitely easier than the first, minus the somewhat intimidating moves off the ledge. Once you make it to the set of rusty chains, clip them but continue up about ten feet to top out the climb. I went right up a ramp to top out which felt pretty solid and secure. The eye bolts are on the left.

Great view and awesome exposure! We did two rappels with a 60m to descend. Dec 11, 2016

jimjanney

No bees on 12/3/2017 but still evidence of hives past down behind the flake. Dec 4, 2017

Grant Bauman
Boulder, CO

Climbed this route on 11/4/18. Bees were definitely still present, but we climbed a bit left of the hive and they left us alone. Fantastic route with just enough runout to keep things interesting for the leader. Awesome position and views the whole way up too! Nov 5, 2018

Adam Snedden
Asheville, NC

I will be taking better photos of this route... Nov 11, 2020

Ron Roskelly

To whoever knocked the honeycomb down to avoid the bees, you suck at life. It takes very little effort to climb around them. If you can't detour just a little bit to avoid honeybees, maybe don't climb. Nov 28, 2021

Jake L

The chains pictured in the photos are in really really bad condition. Top out the climb and find an obvious set of rap anchors that are good.

A full 80m rope will get you to the bottom with rope stretch, anything less than an 80m needs two raps.

The Bees are doing well and very much there as of this post!

Do the route in one long 40m pitch.

The gear placement is not great, just clip bolts. Jun 18, 2022

Michael Bukowski
Denver, CO

Bolts are super rusted. Bee Hive still on first pitch, but you can go around it. Was able to rap the the whole route with a 70 Meter Rope Sep 18, 2023