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Routes in Devil's Race Track

Bounty Hunter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dancing With the Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Day at the Races S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flesh Gordon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gargoyle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Balls of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Eggs & Ham T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Ol' Lady T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Wing S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Look Ma, No Head! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lucy in the Sky S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Malice in Wonderland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moon Doggies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Natural Lite T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Palm Tree S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rumpleforeskin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Russian One Step T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sonic Temple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tree Rash S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trick or Treat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertical Imbalance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome to the Jungle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a M11+
Wet Willie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zombie Stomp S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,498 total, 38/month
Shared By: Baikenbitz on May 2, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

150' feet of fun climbing. First pitch is more enjoyable than the second. If you top out, rappel down to the ledge, then pull the rope, and rap of the ledge. Or trail a second rope, and do it all in one rap.

Location

Located directly after the trail splits to go to either North Face or the Alley. Go to the North Face, and walk around the nose, and you will see a string of draws going up a darker section of rock. This is Lucy in the Sky. It is the tallest section of the rock as well.

Protection

10-12 draws... 15 feet between the bolts is the norm. First pitch ends on a ledge with open cold shuts

Photos

Kim Ran  
This is a great climb! The bees are now dormant, and it looked like the beehive was knocked off because only the top of it was remaining. Hopefully they don't return in the spring...

The first pitch is straightforward face climbing with plenty of large, friendly holds. There is a slight run out between bolts, so make sure the leader is solid on the sharp end.

The belay ledge is comfy, with plenty of room to stand. The first bolt to the second pitch can be reached from the ledge which is nice. I do warn that it is VERY difficult for the climber to communicate with the belayer due to the noise of the highway and wind, so make sure you agree on a plan before heading up the second pitch. Off the ledge, I followed the jugs up and right, but my partner went up and left and thought that was easier.

The second pitch is definitely easier than the first, minus the somewhat intimidating moves off the ledge. Once you make it to the set of rusty chains, clip them but continue up about ten feet to top out the climb. I went right up a ramp to top out which felt pretty solid and secure. The eye bolts are on the left.

Great view and awesome exposure! We did two rappels with a 60m to descend. Dec 11, 2016
Jim Urbec
sevierville, TN
 
Jim Urbec   sevierville, TN
 
climbed this yesterday.

bees were definitely still there, cooler temps kept activity low but definitely not dormant or dead. move past quick and you be fine.

great two pitch climb.

bolts and anchors looked great. there is an old set of chains just below the top, clip it and continue to actual top. Oct 17, 2016
Bob Rob  
The honey bee nest looks pretty huge and active as of May 30, 2015. Our leader went around to the left and placed some gear without getting stung. You could probably follow a similar route without placing any pieces. Don't fall on the fifth bolt or you will land in bee city!

Unfortunately, the rap line from the hanging belay anchor near the top seems like it will take you right past the bees. If you top out there are some eye bolts on the side of the fin. We replaced the manky cord and extended it over the top to the opposite side of the fin. We then used two ropes to rap down into the alley just to be safe on length.

But this is really a great route and worth doing. I was very impressed. We did it in one pitch plus the 10 foot run to the top out. The bees and anchor replacement made it feel a little adventurous, so be confident if you try. May 31, 2015
khowe
Knoxville, TN
 
khowe   Knoxville, TN
 
No bee activity (March 11, 2014). Mar 11, 2014
adoit90
Atlanta, GA
adoit90   Atlanta, GA
Hey Khowe, did you get a chance to check on the bees? Also, do you know what kind of anchors there are at the top of the second pitch? I saw there's cold shuts at the top of the first, but I haven't found anything about the 2nd anchors anywhere. Mar 3, 2014
adoit90
Atlanta, GA
adoit90   Atlanta, GA
Does anywone know if the bees are still a problem here? I'm interested, but not if there's a chance of getting swarmed. Feb 13, 2014
khowe
Knoxville, TN
 
khowe   Knoxville, TN
 
Define swarmed? I'm wanting to give Lucy in the Sky a shot soon, but it sounds like it may not be worth the risk! Any viable solutions to this bee issue at the 4th bolt? Aug 4, 2013
Keegan McCormick
Hixson, TN
Keegan McCormick   Hixson, TN
Attempted going to the far left of the bees at the 4th bolt, partner was swarmed and had to bail. Jul 22, 2013
The bees are still there at the 4th bolt. You can go around to the left. May 1, 2013
Reece Henson
Knoxville, TN
Reece Henson   Knoxville, TN
you don't need 10-12 draws unless you do it all in one pitch. so if you only have 8 draws you'll be fine if you pitch both out Jul 12, 2010