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Routes in Alien Head Area

Alien Head S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angel's Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chick Magnet, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funky Fresh S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hammer, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holly Hipkiss S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horney Goat Weed T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Neenee, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Starrbonne S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,165 total · 11/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This climb ascents the right side of a scrappy formation which is seen due east of the Rattlesnake parking lot, at the end of the gulley. It is easily seen from the parking lot, and faces the parking lot (west). Climb up friable mini-knobs to a steep finish on (finally) better rock. Fun enough climbing, good protection on mostly poor rock.


From the Rattlesnake parking lot, hike east, ascroos Rattlesnake wash, and up the obvious gulley until you hike a short distace up and to the right to the formation. It is the scrappy looking formation easily seen from the parking lot.


5 bolts, fp, 2 bolt anchor (quickdraws only).


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Perhaps one of the top 10 worst routes in Joshua Tree.

Almost every hold on this route is suspect and the car-hood sized flake past the first bolt is barely attatched to the wall. The last five feet is on nice rock but it's not enough to make up for the rest of the rubble.

An easy downclimb exists down the right side of the crag. Jan 3, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Chris;...tell me how you really feel about the climb......yeah; blows;...the rock is pathetic;.....this is what happens when you climb on the lead on site;.....we thought that maybe the rock will be better;...and it did;...too bad it's the last 15'......all I can say is....."oopsie".........(It's got alot of protection bolts just in case the rock starts to collapse on won't fall too far........) Jan 3, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Wait just a minute here....I thought you said top 5 worst climbs? Which is it? 8,000 routes out there... I want to know if it's in the bottom 5 or 10 of 'em all!

Sorry Todd, it did sounds pretty crummy but commented on how you must have drilled the only good rock on the route. Jan 4, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Todd......I know you're on a quest to put up 1,000 new routes, but if the quality of the rock is in question, why not toprope it first? I know ethics are ethics, but this is one 50 ft. route, not an obvious plum. What's the point in attaching your good name and reputation to a route that Chris Miller claims is one of the ten worst routes in Joshua Tree? Dec 29, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Ben...we do them on site on the lead...they can't all be gems....but in spite of the routes lack of quality;..we still had fun climbing it!......I am lucky in that I have fun on most climbs reguardless of the routes quality;....I guess I just like climbing and hanging out w/my homies.....I'm a lucky fellow! (Have you done the route;.....if you haven't......give it a try;'s a hoot, and well protected/safe ....the rock quality does suck....mega-suck even!). Sucky climbs are often big adventures and usually interesting and entertaining....always up for that!....climb on, and happy new year!....... Dec 29, 2012
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Todd....that my friend is a very fine attitude. Climbing should be fun and enjoyed with good friends. Too many friends have given up climbing and moved on to more sedentary pursuits. Thanks for the recommendation....I will jump on Funky Fresh as soon as the rain stops and the stone dries out. A very Happy New Year to you & yours. Keep exploring. Dec 30, 2012

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