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Routes in Alien Head Area

Alien Head S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Angel's Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chick Magnet, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funky Fresh S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hammer, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Holly Hipkiss S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horney Goat Weed T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Neenee, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Starrbonne S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,146 total, 12/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 29, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Angel's Desire is on a smallish spire/boulder that faces south, and is on the hillside directly east of the Rattlesnake parking lot. It is about 20 yards past The Neenee. Can easily be set up as a top rope. The climbing is on flakes and odd/cool tiny square mini-knobs, which are found on many of the routes in this area of Rattlesnake, but really nowhere else in the Park.


Hike east from the Rattlesnake parking lot, across Rattlesnake wash, and up a gulley; soon, climbable formations will be seen up and to the left. This formation is just out of view from the parking lot.


4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (quick draws only).


Durango, CO
carl   Durango, CO
Lots of rope drag on the rock if you try to lower off through the rings - but a short walk-off/downclimb is available to avoid that. A fun climb! Nov 29, 2013
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Fun knobby climbing up this mini spire which features poor rock down low to great rock higher. Don't miss the "angel wing" feature which is actually solidly attatched. Easy downclimb off the backside. Jan 3, 2012
Michael Clark
Riverside, CA
Michael Clark   Riverside, CA
Nice little climb to warm up on. Fun little stems at the start. Two horns provide some interesting holds. The crux is at the top, a feel around for tall climbers and a good static for shorter climbers. Nov 14, 2011