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> Fountain Buttress
> Northwest Corner
Railroad Arete
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1 from 1
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Routes in Northwest Corner
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Chicken Out Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Tracks Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Railroad Arete T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Right Tracks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter & Scott Nykerk |
| Page Views: | 496 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Apr 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Easy climbing topped by a hard boulder problem characterize this route. It's the "direct" version of the Railroad Arete, as opposed to the easier version of the "Chicken Out" way.
Start by climbing the arete protected by two bolts. This is the crux of the "Chicken Out" version. Mantle onto the narrow ledge above the second bolt, a long sling may be helpful, and move right to a crack on the arete. Plug a #1 Camalot, make a few steep moves before the angle kicks back. Climb up this ramp which is protected by a wide crack. At the top of the ramp, plug a 2-inch cam before moving up to the steep, slightly overhanging, but short dihedral. A high bolt on the right side of the dihedral protects the boulder problem crux which is climbed with some stemming, palming and delicate footwork. Mantle on to the ledge and clip the anchor.
Start by climbing the arete protected by two bolts. This is the crux of the "Chicken Out" version. Mantle onto the narrow ledge above the second bolt, a long sling may be helpful, and move right to a crack on the arete. Plug a #1 Camalot, make a few steep moves before the angle kicks back. Climb up this ramp which is protected by a wide crack. At the top of the ramp, plug a 2-inch cam before moving up to the steep, slightly overhanging, but short dihedral. A high bolt on the right side of the dihedral protects the boulder problem crux which is climbed with some stemming, palming and delicate footwork. Mantle on to the ledge and clip the anchor.
Location
Left of the Railroad Tracks Cracks is an arete with two bolts. Same start as the Chicken Out Arete.
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