Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Northwest Corner

Chicken Out Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Tracks Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Railroad Arete T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Tracks Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter & Scott Nykerk
Page Views: 53 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Apr 28, 2010
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Easy climbing topped by a hard boulder problem characterize this route. It's the "direct" version of the Railroad Arete, as opposed to the easier version of the "Chicken Out" way.

Start by climbing the arete protected by two bolts. This is the crux of the "Chicken Out" version. Mantle onto the narrow ledge above the second bolt, a long sling may be helpful, and move right to a crack on the arete. Plug a #1 Camalot, make a few steep moves before the angle kicks back. Climb up this ramp which is protected by a wide crack. At the top of the ramp, plug a 2-inch cam before moving up to the steep, slightly overhanging, but short dihedral. A high bolt on the right side of the dihedral protects the boulder problem crux which is climbed with some stemming, palming and delicate footwork. Mantle on to the ledge and clip the anchor.

Location

Left of the Railroad Tracks Cracks is an arete with two bolts. Same start as the Chicken Out Arete.

Protection

Gear to 3 or 4 inches and 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

0 Comments