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Routes in The Approach Boulder

Cape Fear V5 6C
Good V2 V3 6A
Hard Boiled V6+ 7A
Mantle Traverse, The V6-7 7A+
Mantle, The V3 6A
Midnight or Moonlight? V10 7C+
V6 V6 7A
Warm Up aka The Ear, The V3+ 6A+
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Type: Boulder, 9 ft
FA: No idea
Page Views: 104 total · 1/month
Shared By: andyscott on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Start with both hands on a very large shelf with a high left foot. Pull on and trend up and right on the shelf which eventually turns into a large block hold. Move left up to a big edge and go for the jug on top.

Per Chris McNeil: Start with matched hands on a thin rail at face level. Move your left heel up on the left arete, and go for the right hand pull ("The Ear" hence the name). Press it out and top out.


Looking at the entrance boulder (aka Approach Boulder) from the trail, this nice little problem is on the left side of the boulder. The starting hold should be obvious.

Per Chris McNeil: This is on the back right side of the block as you're looking at it from the highway.




Cape Ann
DFrench   Cape Ann
Is this the same as the Orange Peel problem? Apr 28, 2010
andyscott   Massachusetts
Yes, but I am pretty sure the name is not Orange Peel. Orange Peel is a short route over past the Pink Floyd Wall. May 13, 2010
This is actually called The Ear (via the right side crimp that is key). Oct 23, 2011

More About The Warm Up aka The Ear