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Routes in East Wall Trail

Beautiful Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bin Leadin T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Blue Pill T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Hazel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
First Degree , The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Matrix, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mechanical Advantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
On Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Dutch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Pill T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Skinny Fingers T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wildcat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Cleaned and TR'ed Leroy Froese c. 1999. Rescrubbed, bolted & led D Brayshaw, T de Monye April 2010
Page Views: 895 total, 10/month
Shared By: Dru on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Begin up an offset finger crack notable for a huge xenolith pocket off to the left. Where the crack thins, step right to the arete. Climb on the left side of the arete up compact but featured rock past three bolts, then more directly on the arete as it becomes more broken, placing small wires and thin cams in horizontal breaks.

Originally cleaned in the late 1990s as a toprope, but never led, and subsequently became overgrown. Now established as a lead climb.

Location

This route is located along the East Wall Trail about 40m to the right (east) of the Shark Tooth Flake area. Look for the obvious clean arete.

30m rappel from ring bolts on the top ledge. Ignore the old weathered slings wrapped around the fir tree on the ledge.

Protection

3 bolts and 3 or 4 pieces of gear to 1" (small wires up to blue TCU size)

Photos

Yohan
 
Yohan  
 
Harder then it looks from the ground, climbed it for a warm up, thought it looked like 5.7, it was not. Aug 12, 2010