Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 418 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Apr 26, 2010
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Be respectful when crossing private land. Details
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details


This old, previously unreported route was pointed out to me by an elder TP climber. It was one that was climbed 'back in the day', maybe before cams. I gave it the vaguely descriptive name just to avoid overloading the database with too many 'unknown' or 'unnamed' routes (let me know if this line has a real name or FA info).
The climb: easy low-angle slabs take you up to a starting bulge with some 5.8 moves. 5.7 climbing above that takes you past some horizontal seams and a weathered #1.5 tricam that is welded in place. Duck under the left side of the roof at the top.


Ascends the headwall at the northern end of Independence Gully, to the right of the bolted climbs.
From the summit, walk/scramble down to the west to the rap anchors for Pony Express (some may want to stay roped up for this traverse). Alternatively, at the northeastern corner of the summit, there is an old ratty length of rope tied through a small natural arch. One could rap off that station too, I suppose, but there's no hardware, and the rope looks badly weathered (probably just best to remove that tat, actually).


Single rack of nuts & cams to 3 inches is fine. Build a gear anchor on top.