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Routes in Lans-en-Vercors

Pilier Gris S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,640 total, 18/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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Description

A great, three pitch route on immaculate limestone. Follows nifty features up an improbable gray pillar. Some tricky and exciting moves, but, never too hard and never too far away from decent anchors.

Pitch 1: climb up the right side of the pillar, gaining the slab and following fixed protection up, aiming for a crack system just right of the middle of the pillar.

Pitch 2: up off the belay, steep, trending slightly to the left following weaknesses and sometimes cryptic, but solid, holds. Belay beneath the overhang on the middle of the sloping ledge.

Pitch 3: traverse left until it seems reasonable to climb up the steep, short overhanging rock. Step back slightly right, then up to the top.

Enjoy the great views of Furon, Lans-en-Vercors, and the sublime surrounding environs.

Magnifique!

Location

From the parking lot, spy the most obvious steep pillar straight above the parking area. Located 15 to 20 minutes hike up the trail, passing several sectuers enroute to the base of the pillar. To the right of Secteur Humour noir. Route starts on the right side of the pillar, just left of the chimney separating the pillar and the adjascent area.

Nice flat staging area.

Descent by either a 45m rappel into the gully, or, walk off the top and back around to the base of the climb. Anchor on route might support a rappel back to the base but didn't seem rigged for rappelling specifically.

Protection

Set of quick draws (maybe 8 to 10) and a couple of shoulder length slings. .5 to 1 camalot may prove useful in a couple of more run out sections.

Fixed belay anchors at the end of every pitch.

Hardware has recently been replaced on this route and is bomber. Several old fixed pins left for historical reference?

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