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Routes in Anchor Point Boulder

Alien Intercourse V3 6A
Anchor Point Arete V3 6A
Dark Matter V8-9 7B+
Dark Star V8 7B
Event Horizon, The V3+ 6A+
Iceberg Slim V3 6A
Lanky Mongoloid V4-5 6B+
Last Caress V2 5+
Long Low Link-up V9 7C
Moth to a Flame aka Supercollidor V8 7B
Planet of the Apes V9 7C
Ritalin Sloth V5-6 6C+
Type: Boulder, 18 ft
FA: Jared Lavacque
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

A really cool problem that crouch starts(or stand for 2 less moves, but no added difficulty)with positive small edges to two slots. Then requires precise footwork and two key footholds, to balance under the bulge while making a reach to a tip shredding non-existent right hand side-pull. Make the dyno to the slot jug using left hand on the starting slot slot or a small crimp. Lock off on the jug slot and reach a series of small edges on a less than vertical slab, then relax and focus up small crimps and edges to the top. The crux is pulling past the little bulge and hitting the crimps to the dyno move to the slot.....and then rocking up to the slab. Bring your "A" game and precision.

Location

Start on low crimps and move into the bulge and then follow the right hand crimp and small left hand intermediate crimps to the slot and top-out. See route photo for reference.
The Anchor Point Boulder South Face

Protection

The landing is great, but 2-3 pads are great because of the height and potential to cut loose at any point.

Photos

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