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Routes in Test Pilots Buttress

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Backdoor Man T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Co-Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flakes of Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Focus T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
Gimme three steps... T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kennedy Space Port T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kosmonauts T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rocket Science T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Space Monkey T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Test Pilots S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Weight and Balance Check T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Z Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Keith Reynolds, Buddy Brasington 1991
Page Views: 1,841 total, 20/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a line of four or five bolts past steep, incut flakes to a stance above a fixed pin. Climb up the left facing arch past good but hard to place gear and pull the lip (crux) of the arch to a stance below a steep, featured headwall. Get tricky gear (nuts) and blast up and right for the top of the cliff. Belay or lower from a cable thread thru. Edge is sharp in spots.

Location

This route is on the back side of the Test Pilots Buttress. Approach from either Cereal Butress or Screamweaver Area. Rap the route.

Protection

QDs and singles up to #2 camalots
Four of five bolts and a pin
This route is like a trad route on top of a sport route.

Photos

nbrown
western NC
  5.10d
nbrown   western NC
  5.10d
Fun route for sure! I'd give it 4 stars if the rock was just a little better. None of the moves are harder than 10+, but with pump factor, maybe 11a is reasonable. Definitely not 11b as the guide suggests... Sep 16, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Great route. Watch for the expando flakes when placing gear between the bolts. Feb 21, 2011