Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Keith Reynolds, Buddy Brasington 1991
Page Views: 2,075 total · 19/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Apr 21, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Climb a line of four or five bolts past steep, incut flakes to a stance above a fixed pin. Climb up the left facing arch past good but hard to place gear and pull the lip (crux) of the arch to a stance below a steep, featured headwall. Get tricky gear (nuts) and blast up and right for the top of the cliff. Belay or lower from a cable thread thru. Edge is sharp in spots.

Location

This route is on the back side of the Test Pilots Buttress. Approach from either Cereal Butress or Screamweaver Area. Rap the route.

Protection

QDs and singles up to #2 camalots
Four of five bolts and a pin
This route is like a trad route on top of a sport route.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Great route. Watch for the expando flakes when placing gear between the bolts. Feb 21, 2011
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.10d
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
  5.10d
Fun route for sure! I'd give it 4 stars if the rock was just a little better. None of the moves are harder than 10+, but with pump factor, maybe 11a is reasonable. Definitely not 11b as the guide suggests... Sep 16, 2011