5.12c,
Sport, 180 ft (55 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 27
votes
FA: Erik Fedor, Rob Candelaria, 1989
Colorado
> Boulder
> Eldorado Canyon SP
> Bastille
> Bastille - N Face
Madame Guillotine is a fine sport pitch on the clean, blank-looking face between
Werk Supp and
Bastille Crack.
Start up
Marie Antoinette, a thin crack just to the right of
Werk Supp that ends about 20' up. Where the crack ends, embark on a long, rising, bolt-protected traverse to the right (crux). The climbing here is very typical of Eldo: you either have a decent handhold, or a decent foothold, but rarely both!
Before reaching
Bastille Crack, continue straight up past more bolts on fun, thin face climbing (5.11). After the last bolt, trend right to meet up with
Bastille Crack just below its second belay.
There are a few worthy variations:
If you want a short, single pitch of hard climbing, you can do the crux of MG past the first 4 bolts, and then traverse right into the crux of the
Northcutt Start, and finish at the two bolt anchor on that route.
If you want a long, but somewhat easier pitch, you can climb
Marie Antoinette through it's crux runout (5.9X), up to the bolt on that route, and then traverse up and right to join the upper half of Madame Guillotine (5.11). Belay on
Bastille Crack.
The proudest link-up would be Madame Guillotine into
Hairstyles and Attitudes!
Many draws and a light rack.
I used a yellow Alien getting up to the first bolt, and then a green and a red Camalot to make the belay on the
Bastille Crack at the end of the pitch (fixed pin here as well).
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
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Western North America
-Scott Apr 20, 2010
Fort Collins CO
Western North America
You can start on the Northcutt Start, and continue up the thin corner to start clipping bolts on MG.
You can also Climb Werk Supp to Nexus into the upper 3 bolts of MG.
All are great variation pitches on good rock! Sep 24, 2010
Boulder, CO