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Hillbilly Sex Farm.

5.10d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 6 votes
FA: Blaze Davis
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > Summersville (G… > Long Point

Description

You can climb up the start of Tapeworm, 5.9 to the right and then traverse in left to join the climb between the first and the second bolt. After the traverse, climb up and make some reachy moves to a horizontal. Head up and right aiming for the right edge of the arete near the top. From the last bolt, figure out a good sequence to get up to the shuts and clip them (crux).

Location

From the beach descent trail, head left (facing the lake) for about 70 yards. There will be 2 sport lines next to each other, this is the right line.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts. If you traverse in from Tapeworm, #1-#3 camalots work well to protect the crack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1. Hillbilly Farm (5.10d) 2. Tapeworm (5.9) 3. Portofino (5.10a)
[Hide Photo] 1. Hillbilly Farm (5.10d) 2. Tapeworm (5.9) 3. Portofino (5.10a)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alec Manougian
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Book says no first bolt, but as of Nov 2020 there's one stick-clippable Nov 15, 2020